Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Photos May 17 thru May 20, 2013

                                 This photo was a typical scene. Farmland meadows covered in grasses and flowers. North of Orick



This photo depicts the wetlands out of Orick. Wetlands are crucial in flood prevention, filtering pollutants, erosion control, animal and fish reproduction, and on and on. In northern California and in Oregon, it was wonderful to see the wetlands unhampered. 



I have seen plenty of typical driftwood--gnarly branches from who knows where. But this was the first time I saw redwood logs disguised as driftwood on the beach.

 These are berry bushes. I have passed thousands of them. When I first saw them a few weeks ago, there were buds. Now they are in full bloom. Won't be long before they are covered in berries. Wow, Mama G!


                     Imagine farmland, right in the midst of the redwoods. Here tis. North of Crescent City.


                 This is a golden eagle, I missed the photo of the bird of prey in flight.

                        A green rocky hill. Just a patch. I hadn't seen this in the redwoods earlier. Not far from Gold Beach, Oregon.


Leaving the KOA Kampground north of Crescent City, morning of May 19, 2013


Crazy rocks protrude from the ocean near the shore. May 19th, 12:30 pm.
                                       May 19th, 2:30 pm; simply lovely shoreline views.


                                            Made it to Oregon! May 19th, 9:43 am.

 On the way to Oregon on the Redwood Highway, just after leaving the KOA, May 19.
Still in California here.

Farmland and meadows with the redwoods behind. North of Crescent City, CA, May 19.

So many rivers in northern California and Oregon. This one just into Oregon. May 19.
                                                       Oregon rivers meeting the ocean.
                                              Rivers to Ocean. So lovely!

 Innovative Oregonians. This is a ship pulled inland and made into a gift shop.

                       I was trying to look upward into the trees. Still in California on this one.

                     Les and Calvin; father and son cyclists from Canada. Photo taken in Ophir, Oregon

               Rivers, rivers, rivers. Oregon is the land of rivers. Carlsbad, NM could use some of this water!

                    Check out the bridge too. The bridges in Oregon are really fantastic.

                                                       Les and Calvin again.

                                 Small and large, fast and slow. Babbling brooks, creeks, rivers.


                                       Simple road shot in Oregon. My one sunny day, all day, in Oregon.
 Scottish Broom covers the hills and roadsides from central California through Oregon. Truly beautiful.
 This was a crystal clear creek. I couldn't catch the image correctly. The blue is the sky reflection where the water was a bit deeper. The tan is the color of the rocky creek floor.
This is Sigano, the 70 yr old adventurer from McKinleyville, CA, about 12-15 miles north of Eureka. 
 I will do better with the photo order. This was my first attempt to upload photos from my desktop. I think I get it now. About time--2 months into this adventure!

Newport to Seaside----and Tillamook!


Today is Tuesday, May 28th. It’s been a whirlwind and I’m a bit foggy headed, so I will do my best to recall the last 4 days.

On Friday, May 24th, I left The Park Motel and made it to Newport. It rained nonstop. This is a great town, divided by a huge river---well, really, it’s a bay. The Yaquina Bay. I found a good deal on a room on the south end. “Everything” is on the north end, so I walked across this massive bridge that spanned the bay. Old cement and artistry gave way to engineering steel beams and arches, then back again to the old cement style. Luckily, it wasn’t windy. The cement wall was not very high and, since I was on foot and next to the edge, I found myself reaching out and touching that wall every 3-4 steps. I’m getting better about the bridge and height phobia, only to hear that the I-5 bridge over the Skagit River near Vancouver collapsed, with 2 cars landing in the water...Anyway, I walked awhile to find a grocery store and picked up more consumables, grabbing a coffee on the way back.

Note on coffee. All through the Oregon coast are small towns. If there are more than 300 people in a town, that is enough to sport a coffee hut. I didn’t see many actual coffee shops for coffee-to-go in towns less than 1200. But these little huts dot the coast. They are small drive-through edifices, like little sheds you can construct yourself (with a smart friend) with a kit from Lowes or the Home Depot. They equip the insides with coffee makers, fridges, and microwaves. You can purchase almost every type of cappucino, frappuccino, lattes, and basic coffee drinks and espressos. You can order pre-packaged pastries, hot cereal, and granola bars. All in a drive thru. 

I now understand why there are so many of them. Oregonians live in the rain and, if they get their coffee at a drive-thru, they don’t have to don their galoshes and raincoats!! Just roll up your sleeve, reach out the window, and grab your coffee. Since I was on a trike, I sat in the rain waiting for the coffee. It is really kinda fun. 

I say that because the wind has been at my back. Not a strong wind. But still...

Here’s my next discovery about myself and life. Rain and hills on a cycle challenge you physically. I don’t find this distressing. Difficult yes; upsetting, no.

A headwind, however, for me is demoralizing, depressing. The physical challenge is there, just like with a steep incline. But a steep incline makes me smile. Wind pushing me back, however, makes me feel anxious. 

I extrapolate this to life. If I’m faced with a physical or mental challenge, that is fine. Even fun. This is like the steep hill or heavy load. I feel like I can conquer it. 

But emotional distresses are another thing. If I feel there is tension with a friend or loved one, I do not find that challenge “fun”. Certainly, I try to figure out what I need to do: apologize, counsel, listen, keep quiet, bridge a gap, negotiate, compromise, let go, etc. I will work at that and address it. But the whole situation is stressful to me. This is like a headwind. Human relationships are the most delicate and most worthy of our time. I won’t run from the headwind, but I am exhausted after the ride. Same thing with a communication upset.

OK.

On Saturday, May 25th, I got a late start. I’ve been going to bed way too late. Then, as I cycled through Newport, I saw their Saturday Farmer’s Market. What a delight. I stopped and gawked. I picked up a few baked goods from these young ladies who were selling bread and cookies like hot cakes. Wait, that doesn’t sound quite right. No pancakes were being sold...

Anyway, the fruits and veggies were a bit high priced at the market, although they looked fantastic. But the baked goods at these women’s stall were priced to sell. And sell, they did. The ladies were cheerful and the bread was a’flying! I got a chocolate torte and a muffin. They lasted 3 days total. 

I am not supposed to be eating baked goods. I really need to reign myself in, here. My daughters would spank me. They have much more self-discipline. I tend to reward myself into oblivion!!

HD and I cycled into the southern tip of Lincoln City in the early afternoon, having completed only about 25-30 miles--half of the distance I had planned for the day.  Lincoln City is a big town, spread out over several miles and separated into “neighborhoods”. A couple on a tandem cycle stopped and asked directions to the Devils Lake State Park Campground. They were using the same maps as I am---the Adventure Cycling Association maps. These are waterproof and sturdy and give helpful hints--like where some of the good campgrounds are located. This couple planned on staying at the hiker/biker spot at the Devil’s Lake Campground in the northern third of Lincoln City. They cycled on, and I decided that this campground sounded good. So I decided to follow their lead, in a manner of speaking. They were gone in a flash while HD and I plodded onward. Happy and calm. It was my first day without rain and I was missing the camping.

I found the campground and Steve and Nancy Ellis, the couple on the tandem, were camped and getting ready for a little meal. After I put up my tent, we had a nice conversation. 

Steve is an avid, serious cyclist. It is one of his passions. He and Nancy have been spending their vacations every year cycling and camping. They had 3 daughters---and took them along on all those cycling vacations. At one point, they had two tandems. Steve was the pilot of one, Nancy the pilot of the other. The two older daughters took the rear posts. The baby was put in a carrier on Steve’s bike. At one point, they rigged it so that she could pedal whenever she wanted, or put her legs up on stirrups. They plied her with games and coloring books. And they never stopped cycling.

So now, the two older daughters still love to cycle. The youngest does not. But all 3 are athletic. I think the youngest plays collegiate basketball. So, watching his kids in sporting events is another of Steve’s passions. He loves those daughters.

Steve and Nancy were both math teachers. Nancy taught for about 10 years and then became full time mommy and part time substitute teacher. Steve just retired from teaching and this trip was his retirement gift to himself. 

The gift: the exact same ride I’m doing! LOL!!!  They live in Chicago but started their trip from Florida on March 17, one week before me. They average 70 miles a day, speeding along on their tandem. They camp every night, rain or shine. Nancy says Steve is like McGyver, able to fix anything, rig anything, and create something out of practically nothing. So, they camp in the rain but stay dry. 

I am not so gifted with smarts. But I can listen. It started to rain at 8 pm and didn’t stop till 6:30 a.m. Everything in my tent was soaked. Steve and Nancy explained what I had done wrong in my camp set up. I listened. Maybe next time I will stay drier.

So, Steve’s passions are cycling, his beloved daughters, and watching them in whatever sport they choose. All three are grown and educated. One is in seminary, studying comparative writings between scriptures and secular works. One did a missionary trip for several months. It was obvious that Steve and Nancy adore their daughters.

Nancy shares the passion for their children. While she enjoys the cycling, I imagine she wouldn’t mind a motel from time to time. I felt spoiled as I do go to motels in the rain. I prefer the camping when it’s decent, but a hot shower in a motel room once a week is cool. Since I hit Oregon, I’ve been moteling it. I feel guilty about it because of the expense. But, I don’t want to get sick, so I allow myself to get soaked during the day while I’m cycling, but I don’t want to sleep wet. Big baby.

But, back to Nancy. Focus, girl, focus!

Nancy’s biggest passion is her faith in God. She says she has felt His presence this entire trip and believes with great certainty that they would be dead without His intervention. She described a few harrowing incidents that could have had a bad end. But did not (have a bad end), as she is here living and breathing and singing His praises. I can see why their children went into ministry fields. It is part and parcel of their family, of the way they were raised, of the closeness of this family and the extrapolation of religion from this secure home life. 

May their blessings be many. And yours too, whatever your belief systems. We are all One. That is my religion. ONE. We are all made of the same stuff, which links us irrevocably in an incredible energy field. More than that, I don’t know. I believe we can manipulate this energy field to a certain extent with our thoughts and that we create our existence, our own reality, through it. This is why some people walk with a dark cloud over their heads and some walk with many blessings. I choose the latter. So let it be done.

On Sunday, May 26th, HD and I packed up the wet gear---very, very wet gear---and headed for Tillamook. I deviated from the advice from the cycling maps and stayed on the 101 instead of hugging the Pacific. I was so glad I did. This road wound through the gently rolling hills of Tillamook country. It was not depictive of the ascents and descents of the rocky coast. Instead, I was treated to views of farm country. I am so excited about this day. I passed dozens of small farms with huge pastures. These are the dairies that comprise the Tillamook Farmers’ Co-op. These farms had anywhere from a dozen to maybe 100 cows, lounging, munching, curiously watching me cycle by. Lemme tell ya--these were HAPPY cows. Can you tell if a cow is happy? 

OK, so it’s a guess. But here is a hint. I pass this huge pasture, with a bridge going over a part of it. I’m on the bridge and what do I see underneath? The cows had walked from the pasture on the west side of the bridge and crossed to the east. I didn’t see a cowboy or ranch dog pushing them along. They were lining up to go into the milking shed. By themselves. I am sure there was some grain for them---I have milked a few cows in my days and that is a nice way to get them to stay still for the milking. There were other cows leaving the milking shed to go back to their pasture. 

I got a kick out of this. It was like Cow Camp. Have fun in the grass all day, then go in for the communal dinner and then go back out to play. 

There should’ve been a campfire and a cowboy singing old tunes to complete the picture. 

Learn about this amazing co-op: 







For any of you health conscious folk who think all dairy products are evil:

  1. Most of us are born with lactase, an enzyme which allows us to digest milk products. And not just as babies. If you take lactase absent cells and put them in petrie dishes and add milk, close to 50% of those cells will make lactase. Without having the original gene to express that enzyme. We are so damn adaptable. I love that about humans! The Hindus revere cows because of what they give to humans. Yet, they don’t eat beef. But they do care for the cows respectfully, milk them, and eat lots of yogurt, cheese, and milk. (Yummm)

  1. If you are conscious about the milk and milk products you buy, even you vegetarians (and dare I say vegans?) can enjoy dairy products, knowing that the cows are well cared for--if you purchase with discernment. Do you read the cartons? Buy from sources known for good work and farm practices? If you eat/drink dairy, perhaps look at the labels and pay a few extra bucks for products where the cows are treated well. You vote with your dollars. You push economics and farm practices, etc, with your dollars. 

3.  There are those who say dairy products are bad for you. This may be true for some people. Some folks are truly lactose intolerant. Some don’t digest milk products well. I find this to be a good determinant for those who just aren’t sure: go on a 3 day juice and water fast. Then, add back some foods, one or two days at a time, and check your reaction. If you get sick or don’t feel well, then that particular food may not be so good. I can eat lots of yoghurt, but I have to make sure I don’t eat excessive amounts of cheese. Balance is key. 

All that being said, while I eat dairy, I don’t eat four legged or winged critters. But that is my path, not necessarily yours. Here’s the thing. Gratitude is key. Whether you eat carrot or cow, chickpeas or chicken, peas or pork. 

OK, now that I’ve promoted sane dairy industry and stood on the pulpit (it WAS Sunday when I went to Tillamook, after all), let’s move on. I stayed in Tillamook on Sunday night. I mean, that’s one reason why I wanted to go through farm country--to see where the milk comes from. I didn’t see the factory until the next morning. I had to stop in and buy some cheese. I would have loved to wander the factory a bit--they had a self-guided tour. But it was raining pretty heavily and I was not moving fast. I wouldn’t mind coming back. With an empty cooler and prepared to fill it!

The night before, I had been extraordinarily hungry. My mistake. I ate some chinese food at the end of the night; take-out from a place next to the motel. I awakened not feeling great but ate more of the stuff anyway. Like a compulsion to not let food go to waste, and I had eaten only half of it the night before. Not fresh food. 

Well, this was one heck of a hard day. I felt a bit unsettled in my stomach all day. (And no, I hadn’t eaten any cheese! Just old food from a can, I believe). The rain was hard, the hills were harder, and I reached Seaside, Oregon all done in. I had a light fever, felt wobbly, and couldn’t tell if I was hungry or sick. I stopped in a Safeway store, drank a blonde roast coffee, and got on the cell phone to see if there were any cheap motels. Well, one of the nicest places in Seaside had a last minute deal, probably because the beginning of the summer season turned out to be cold and rainy and it was Memorial Day---people leaving, NOT checking in! So, I checked into the Shilo Inn & Suites, Oceanfront in Seaside, for $60/night. The lady at the desk treated me like visiting royalty: had me park HD in a glassed conference room and gave me a room facing the ocean. Nothing between me and the water but a large stretch of sand. I showered, did my exercises, went down to the lounge and drank a glass of red wine, and then....lied in the steam room, then in the sauna, then in the jacuzzi. OMG! I came back up to the room, fixed myself a sweet potato with Tillamook cheese for dinner, followed by a baked apple with melted Tillamook coconut fudge on it. And strawberry Kombucha. I ate my feast while watching a movie on Netflix. And felt much better!

This was heaven. Now it is Tuesday and I’m in a coffee shop across the street. I still feel weak and tired but the tummy is much better, so I’m staying here all day. I will take a walk. It was a 30% chance of rain today here, but guess what? It’s raining!! LOL! 

Tomorrow I will head into Washington. Today I will ponder the meaning of life.

Wish me luck. I haven’t figured that one out yet. At all.


Java Jive and The Park Motel


Thursday, May 23rd. I left the Red Lion Inn in Coos Bay about 9:15 a.m. (fantastic special price there last night!). Rain forecast was 100% but, at 9:15, it was just cloudy with little bits of sunlight shining through. Off HD and I went across the huge bridge over the Coquille River. It makes the Pecos River in Carlsbad look like a puddle on the floor. Some of the bridges are incredible works of art. The old ones, such as the one over part of the Coquille, has large, arched cement columns. These functional yet beautiful bridges are in plenteous supply----I mean, there are SO MANY rivers!! Really quite awe-inspiring. California and Oregon are very bike-oriented states. Most of the newer bridges have a biking or walking lane. The older ones often have a flashing light that cyclists activate when they are crossing the bridge so the vehicles are alerted to keep an eye out and keep the speed down.

I’m loving the Department of Transportation. Yay to all road engineers and workers. Keep us moving. 

Apparently, a fact of which I was fully unaware, but Oregon has a very large sand dune recreation area along the coast. I’m not talking about a little sandy beach, but large, rolling, get out the four wheelers, DUNES. The highway doesn’t go through the dunes, of course. The redwoods are growing in the outer edges of the dunes and, through various breaks in the treelines, you can glimpse the dunes from the roads. To get to the dunes, you must take the side roads that drop you off at the edge of the dunes. Along the highway, there are several rental places for dune buggies and four wheelers, including guided tours on these vehicles. If I ever come back to play here, I would like to do a little four-wheeling. I will be like the little old lady from Pasadena--go granny, go granny, go granny, go. I hear the Beach Boys...Or Jan and Dean (who actually sang it first).

Anyway, refocus.

It was a quiet ride, and fast too. I had a slight tailwind and the road inclines were easy enough, so the pace was fast, for me and HD anyway. I stopped at Reedsport, about the halfway point of the day. I pulled into the first coffee shop I saw, “Jitterbug and Java”. What a find!!! This cafe is owned by Darlene Ash and her husband (he wasn’t there so I didn’t meet him). This cafe is THE SPOT in Reedsport. It has the cafe counter and kitchen in the middle of this rather large building. To the right of the counter is a room of odds and ends from all over. Antiques, new stuff, funny stuff, local stuff. Stuff fo’ sho’!!! On the left are tables and chairs--a modest number of them. Then, then...the dance floor. Bands come to play in this little town of 4,000. There is Karaoke every week. And dancing. Darlene has taught ballroom dancing for years. Now, she just teaches upon request. While Darlene and I became acquainted, two local senior men took turns at the mic, practicing their songs for the next karaoke night. One of the gents crooned the Willie Nelson “Always On My Mind”. I totally misted up...

 Walls are decorated with posters and bills from theatrical shows, dances, famous actors, etc. Darlene has a lifesize display of the Blues Brothers, action statues in black suits, hats, and those irrepressible shades, singing their hearts out!! I wonder if they have 5 dollars and a message from God.

In front of the Blues Brothers statues are two lady mannequins, dressed in genuine ballroom dance competition gowns. Light blue, sequins, feathers, chiffon. The gowns were on loan from a profressional dance company. They really were lovely. 

In front of the store is a rough hewn sculpture of a lumberjack with a lady sitting on his lap. One of her shoes has fallen off and he has hold of her blonde braid. Darlene told me the braid was supposed to be her hand, but a slip of the chain saw and the hand was gone so the sculptor had to change her design.



Yes, you heard it right. Chainsaw. Reedsport has an annual chainsaw sculpting competition. The next one is coming here in just a few weeks. Chainsaw artists from all over come and compete. If you have a moment, check out chainsaw sculptures on the web and you will see some crazy stuff.

I just clipped this photo from the internet. Now, the little lady who carved the Lumberjack was in her 60’s, weilding that chainsaw with skill. I took a photo of it myself, but the lighting wasn’t good and I used my iphone. 

If this blog converts nicely to the website with these clipped photos intact, I might start doing photos this way on the website, as the Coppermine gallery has not been cooperative.

Anyway, on to Darlene. What a lady. Born in Wisconsin in a small town, she says all the people she grew up with are still living there, nothing changed. She, however, has a restless spirit and busy hands. She and hubby moved here to Oregon about 50 years ago, only the last 2 of those years spent here in Reedsport. She worked in the food industry as a manager/supervisor (Harry and David--you know, where all those incredible fruit baskets come from??) but never had to do the factory work other than a few minutes at a time to cover employee bathroom breaks. She has managed people, done accounting, bought/sold for food industry, etc. So, she and her husband started this cafe. She runs it and he supplies it. 

Darlene can sing and dance. She can organize and mobilize people. She has lived there for just a few years and the people want her to run for mayor. She told me touching stories of how people’s lives have been changed, just by giving them a chance. She is modest, but lives have changed from reaching out her hand to offer opportunities. Not gifts. Opportunities. 

Here is the lesson. Walk through that door, man!!

The young man who cooks and cleans at the cafe was a kid without a job in a town without an offer. He has tattoos and a mohawk type buzz--head shaved except for a center strip which is cut very short. Looks perfectly normal to me, from the southwest, his look would be quite typical! He was married with a little pregnant wife. Darlene really didn’t need the help but she hired him, paid him a fair wage, and helped him with simple things like leftovers. She gave him a chance. He loves her dearly, like his own mother. He was a smiling young man, loving his work, and appreciating the chance. Others have since offered him work, but he is also loyal to the core. He is a real cutie. God Bless this man! And everything he touches.

Yes, I think Darlene should be elected Mayor of Reedsport!

After meeting the two crooners and finishing the really great cuppa Joe, I headed north to the next destination, somewhere between Dunes City and Florence, OR. The weather did say 100% chance of rain, but it didn’t start until about 3:15 pm. I had passed Dunes City about 10 minutes earlier. I find very few convenience stores in Oregon, compared to California! Miles of unbroken highway. Little burgs may have a PO, a gift shop, and sometimes a cafe, but no gas station or convenience store along the rugged coast! I guess they get their gas and their goods at the bigger towns, like Reedsport and Florence. Towns bigger than 500. 

I pulled into the first convenience store I found on the highway, about 2-3 miles from Florence. The rain was falling heavy now. The motels in Flo were overpriced but there was a modest motel in Grenada, The Park Motel, across the street from the FuelGood store where I had parked. The rooms only cost $55. Sold! That is almost the cost of a Kamping Kabin at a KOA, which is just 4 walls and 2 cots--no bathroom, no sink, no running water, etc. But The Park Motel is an adorable mountain motel, with all wood paneling, a queen bed, a simple bathroom, and the mod cons typical nowadays---coffee maker, small fridge, small microwave, tv, and internet. The owner, Margaret, says she and her husband have run this place about 12 years but they have good help and take 2 days off every week to stay in their home in Florence, just up the road. They try to take a little vacation every year too. They plan to continue with this work until they just can’t do it anymore. Retirement without work is not an option. 

So, after a phone conversation with my son, text talk with my daughters, watching “Into The Wild” on Netflix on my MacBook, and writing this blog, I should hit the hay. BTW: If you haven’t seen “Into The Wild”, it is worth it. Many lessons in this little film, directed by Sean Penn (he is really quite a genius) and starring Emile Hirsch (my new favorite male actor). It’s based on a true story, which makes it even better. 

SO: Oiche mhaith agus codladh samh. (good night and sleep well in gaelic).

Thursday, May 23, 2013

Into Oregon!


On Saturday morning, May 18th, I left the Elk Prairie Campground and headed for Crescent City. This was, surprisingly, an uneventful day. Just a beautiful one through the Del Norte Redwoods State Park, with the 101 going right through it. It was basically about 45 miles of woods, without any real towns or stops. No coastal views thru the redwoods. I went to the Crescent City KOA Kampground. I wanted a hot shower and a tent. I got both, including electricity in the bathroom. I plugged in my electronics and talked to my son while everything recharged. 

The next day was a bit harder. Well, a lot harder. The wind had been picking up over the last few days and this day, Sunday, May 19th, was a long 50 mile ride with a serious headwind. However, the views were still incredible, which took the sting out of the wind. Most of the time.

Highlights of the ride? HD and I passed into Oregon. The number of rivers I have been passing has been remarkable. Huge rivers running down to the ocean. Bridges of all types; even the highest bridge in Oregon with a 358 ft drop. Farmland in the redwoods. Since passing Eureka, the redwood forests have been thinned and there are large farmlands---cattle, sheep, llamas, horses, hay fields, vegetable fields. The view is changing now. 

I reached Gold Beach in the late afternoon and knew I didn’t have it in me to set up camp; the wind had exhausted me and I was shaking. I stopped at the Motel 101, a modest but clean little motel. A sign on the door said the manager was “out” but to call the number on the door, if help or a reservation were needed. I called the number and about 10 minutes later, “Satish” arrived. He is an attractive 42 yr old man, born in India and moved to the USA with his parents when he was 16. His father died not too many years following their arrival. So, Satish took over caring for his mother. He learned his skills on the job---he enjoys fixing things--plumbing, electrical, some construction. He manages this motel single-handedly. He does half of the cleaning as well. Satish takes great pride in his abilities and his stated loyalty to his bosses: Mr and Mrs Williams. Satish works 7 days a week, 10-14 hrs a day. He sleeps in an apartment in the motel office, but also has a small guest house on the owners’ property in Gold Beach, where his mother lives. He goes “home” every day around 11 am and his mother has his lunch prepared. She apparently is healthy and active and they are very close. 

Satish has never married but he did have a serious relationship for a few years. Apparently, he is having difficulty finding a companion who is willing to live in Gold Beach, a small town of about 2000, while he works his long days. However, he really does enjoy his job and feels his pay is quite fair, considering that his and his mother’s housing is covered, as well as a number of other bennies.

I spent about an hour chatting with Satish during the quiet evening. He lives very simply but feels that his needs are all met and he is content. He gave me his philosophy of life: a person, he says, needs only 3 things to live a complete life:  a roof over your head, an enjoyable job, and “to always ask permission”. This last one is key to understanding Satish and his philosophy. He feels it is important to always do the right thing and then you will sleep the sleep of the innocent. You go to bed with a clean conscience. 

“Never do anything without asking permission”: So, you never take what is not yours, unless you ask and have been granted permission. That not only covers stealing physical objects, but the less tangible as well. For example, you don’t assume things about others, you ask. You don’t treat people rudely. You don’t treat a woman disrespectfully---taking what is not given without express permission. 

His life consists of doing work that he enjoys---he likes doing the motel repairs, meeting clients who stay in the motel, making sure the rooms are in excellent condition, being treated with trust by his boss. He says he could go anywhere and would be able to get work. He would work for free for a few days to show that he is a good worker. He has been working for the Williams family for 12 years now and will continue to work for them for as long as they live. They are in their 70’s, as is his own mother. So, in some respects, he views them as parental figures as well as his employers, and he is there for them whenever they need him. 

When he is not working, Satish likes to watch tv and movies and then he will drink some beer after 9 pm, not before. He has 2 dogs---a chihuaha and a black lab---who stay with him in the motel office apartment. They keep him company should he get lonely. Every 3 months or so, he takes off an evening and Mr Williams comes in to cover the front desk. He goes to Coos Bay to live it up in his own quiet way. He saves his money and lives very frugally. His diet is quite simple as well. He personally feels well off, as he has a free place to live, a nice tv with every channel imaginable and a dvd player, some simple furniture, and a guest home for his mother, with whom he spends time every day. 

Satish reminds me that one can live simply and be happy, if they so choose. He also finds contentment with very little in the way of “things”, “activities”, “hobbies”, or even relationships. He would like to find a lady who would be happy to live simply in a small town; someone who can find things to do for herself and just be content. He doesn’t take vacations as his needs are met where he is right now. He lives at the coast, but states he never actually walks across the street to the beach or watch the ocean. 

I must admit, while I admire his ability to be happy with his low-maintenance life, I tend to want to get into trouble! Like travel, meeting new people, going to coffee shops, going to school, vacations, more travel, exploring everything around me, and then again, maybe some travel. 

I guess that would be considered “high maintenance” but, since I take care of it myself, then I think I would be “low maintenance” for a partner. If I had a partner, he could join me if he likes; I’m not asking to be entertained.

But I really do like to be taken to dinner from time to time...

On Monday, May 20th, I left in the morning and struck out for Bandon, OR, a 56 mile ride.  Here I will mention that, while I have the maps from Adventure Cycling Association, I often choose to use the simplest path. For example, cycling maps often suggest taking a more scenic route than the highway. This often adds a few miles and a lot more hills to manage. At this point, I’m a few weeks behind schedule, so I have been choosing fewer side roads and more hwy 101. Not only is it a straighter path from point A to point B, but the road itself tends to be a bit better, with newer pavement and fewer road irregularities and ruts. The Dept of Transportation in both CA and OR often suggest the side roads instead of the 1 or 101 due to traffic. But, I’m finding the traffic in the northern half of CA and, so far, OR, is relatively mild except near towns of over 5000 population. Speaking of which--a town of 3000 is now “large” to me, in this area of the country. It’s all a matter of perspective!!

Now, taking the Avenue of the Giants instead of the 101 was a no-brainer. It was gorgeous and historical and I would do it again. It actually paralleled the 101 most of the way, so it wasn’t any longer, really, but it was a heck of a lot more picturesque. Dark, mysterious, holy---in the deepest part of the giant redwoods.

So, moving along. The trip to Bandon, Oregon was long and fun! I met Les and Calvin, father and son cycling from Canada, where they live. I met them at the public beach bathroom that is known as Ophir. Ophir is on the map, but there is basically only a beach parking lot, a few picnic benches, and a bathroom. Les had been wanting to do this cycling trip along the Pacific Coast from Canada to LA for quite some time. When he told his son that he was going, his son decided to join him. Les was cooking sausages when I met them in the morning. I found it interesting that they were cycling and brought enough utensils to actually cook. Apparently he is carrying a heavier cargo load than I am, although I didn’t think that possible. After all, I am carrying way too many clothes, which I do seem to go through each 5 days!! 

Because Calvin is a young whippersnapper who cycles all over the place, they decided that Calvin is going to drive a SAG vehicle because he cycles faster than his dad. I wondered how that was going to be arranged. Is Calvin going to cycle ahead so he can get the cycling fun done, get a vehicle, and come back? Or will they both just cycle together to LA, get a vehicle, and Calvin drive the vehicle on the way back to Canada?

Calvin’s passion is filmmaking. He loves to make feature films, which is one reason why he wants to go to LA. I am not sure if he has contacts already there or just wants to see Hollywood. 

Well, I cycled on, into Bandon, OR. This town has a quaint little section, really only about 2 blocks long, considered “Old Town Bandon”. The water treatment plant is painted with marine scenes and the little shops look like old fishing village shops. I checked into another motel because the weather forecast said 100% chance of rain the following day. I stayed in the La Kris Inn. The manager was very helpful and the price for the room was very good. They even have a DVD player in the room and DVDs in the office you can watch. I checked out two: Avatar and Imaginary Heroes, both with Sigourney Weaver. I think she is one hell of an actor. Tough, cool, believable. Zoe Saldana plays the Navi heroine, Neyterii, in Avatar. This is an animated movie but filmed with  such incredible color, creatures, and imagination. Both films were excellent. I had never seen Imaginary Heroes. Fantastic. Touching coming of age for the son, played by Emile Hirsch. Also a period of growth, like an acceptance of life and death, for the mother, played by Weaver.

In Bandon, I did the laundry, picked up food and bottled water for the next few days, and  hung out when the rain began. Todd, the gent I met who lives in the mountains near Leggett, drove up and totally surprised me. I have no idea how he figured out what town I was in, but he did, texted me, and 5 minutes later was at the door. He took me to dinner--didn’t I just say I like that?--and we talked about our lives. He was the perfect gent and he and his dog, Ginger, rented a room in the motel and they had a peaceful night. 

This morning, Wednesday, May 22nd, I awakened to heavy rain. The 50% chance of rain had changed to 100%. But, the wind had also changed from a north west wind to a south west wind. So, while it meant getting very wet, it also meant I might actually get a tailwind, the first since I hit the southern CA coast!!! So, I checked out late, since I spent part of the morning undecided about whether to get on that trike or not; and got on the road shortly after 11 am. I had only 30 miles to go, and it only took about 3 to 3.5 hours. For me, that was a record on HD since beginning this trip. It didn’t seem windy, but the grades were minimal and easy, staying on the 101. The rain stayed heavy and I was soaked and frozen when I arrived in Coos Bay.  I checked into the motel and unloaded my very wet gear. I had tarps and nylon bags, etc, but the water had found its way around any crease or crevice or pinhole and did its work. So the rest of the afternoon has been spent moving my clothing around the heater vent. I’m a bit overly warm but still have a few wet things remaining. 

Tomorrow it is on to the next stop: the goal is just north of Dunes City, OR. Rain is now forecast for about 2 weeks, with an occasional break for some peekaboo sun. But, while in Oregon, and probably Washington, I will have to either cycle in the rain, or just not cycle. Not really an option! So, the destination is about 50 miles. A long day. I really oughtta go to bed now. 



Wednesday, May 22, 2013

Escape Back To The Trees


Friday, May 17th, 2013. I had a restless night as the couple next door had great endurance and were very vocal about it. When I awakened, I was anxious to skedaddle from Eureka. I got out of the motel shortly after 7 and pulled into Arcata about 7:30. Sigh of relief. This is an adorable, happening little town with old homes well cared for, coffee shops and bistros, a quaint theatre from yesteryear playing old movies, all sorts of programs for children, health food stores, flowers everywhere. You get the idea. Like the opposite of Eureka. People on the streets were smiling and friendly and courteous. No one yelling or cursing. Even the vagabond was happy and shouted out a friendly hello from his perch under the eaves of some building. 

I did meet a nice traveler in Eureka--Pat. She is a recently retired school counselor, working in Oregon. She has made a decision, however, to move back to the east coast where siblings and childhood friends are living. Pat loves to travel and see and learn and spend time with friends and loved ones. She likes to read and garden and I believe, if I recall correctly, that she likes to sew. Pat--correct me if I’m wrong!

To give Eureka credit---the working people in the motel: Target, Subway, Starbucks, and the Mexican restaurant about 3 blocks away---were all very nice and friendly. The staff at the Mexican restaurant made me a “dinner to go” right at closing time. The young man at the Super 8 was helpful and had the dysfunctional TV repaired straight away so that, when I got back with my takeout dinner from the Mexican restaurant, it was working just fine.

It took awhile to exit Arcata and its neighbor, McKinleyville, as my route took me meandering through streets and some rough roads to get to a hiking/biking trail. This trail extended several miles and people were out walking their dogs, pushing strollers, and jogging along the coastal trail. At a park in McKinleyville, I met Sigano, a friendly woman who purchased a recumbent trike a few years ago for $1000 and then gave it away a year later---it was rusty and somewhat flimsy, according to Sigano. Not only that, but she had sustained some injuries, unrelated to the cycle, but after 2 shoulder fractures, she just stopped riding. Her dream has been to hike or bike the English speaking countries. After putting it off for many years, she now has airfare and a hiking tour booked for July in Scotland! She is very, very excited. Her kids are all behind her and even helped finance a part of the trip. 

Sigano, rhyming appropriately with gitano, is a gypsy name. And Sigano has traveling genes. She walks 5-10 miles each day and was a spry lady of seven decades. She had many questions about Henry David and admired his sturdy frame. I, for one, have been very grateful that HD is tough. He’s been getting quite a workout, that’s for sure. 

I cycled for quite awhile along Patrick Point Rd, out of Trinidad. At the northern end of this scenic route is the Patrick Point State Campground. It’s really quite an extensive campground and has many walking paths down the cliffs and embankments to the ocean below. I entered the campground just so I could take such a walk. After walking down, and then back up, a trail to the ocean, I entered the parking lot at the trailhead and met George and Bernadette, two retirees who camp extensively in the spring and fall. They were camping at a private campground just up the road, but hiked through the state campground to see the views. George has been an avid cyclist and was pretty excited about HD. In fact, the two of them bring their bikes on their camping trips so they can take at least day rides around the area. 

George has a passion for old cars and has a few that he has restored and takes to car shows in the summer. He is an experienced skiier who taught his children how to snow ski when they were very young. One son has even become an instructor in the sport. The grandkids also know how to ski. George loves to garden and says the neighbors close their doors and windows should he and Bernadette walk down the street with bags of produce in their arms. They don’t sell the produce, but try to give most of it away. Apparently, the garden is quite productive because they can’t find enough takers!

George---you might want to consider taking the produce to a soup kitchen in town. I bet they will open their arms in a warm welcome!!

They both love camping, hiking, biking, and just being out doors and together. George has merry eyes that twinkle and a delightful laugh. Bernadette is a beauty with high cheek bones and a heart shaped face, tanned skin, and big brown eyes. What a nice couple!

After leaving the campground area, I got back on hwy 101 for several miles. The Humbolt lagoon area is really cool, with a huge, quiet lagoon, well preserved wetlands, and water on both sides of the highway for a short length of it. I passed through Orick, an adorable town that uses the opportunity to sell camping supplies and groceries to campers, but looks like it also is a small farming community. For the redwoods as a backdrop, it is quite picturesque. Heading out of town, I passed an area with over a dozen elk. Signs are posted everywhere to keep an eye out for the elk. Apparently, there is a large preserved elk population here. The likelihood of seeing elk AND enjoying the redwoods are a big draw here.

I am camping tonight at the Elk Prairie State Campground. I’ve seen elk in the meadow and huge elk pies in the cleared area where my tent is pitched. The ranger said there are bears in the area. Each campsite is fitted with huge metal bear-proof food storage bins. So, when I pitched the tent, I ate my fill so I could store all my food in the bin. Then I took a walk around the campground and met Danny and Debrah, two musicians from Austin. Yesterday was Deb’s birthday, so they flew in and celebrated with friends and then drove and hiked today and ended up at this campground. Tomorrow they will hike some more. This is one of their favorite campgrounds and they come almost every year. I met them as I was walking around the campground, because they were playing their instruments. Danny was mastering the strings on a “rover” or a traveling guitar. I had never seen one. The neck, strings, frets, spaces between the strings---are all standard size. But the guitar body is very small. His fingers flew over the strings with great skill and precision. Debbie was playing the bass guitar. Apparently, when they perform on stage and in clubs, he uses a 12 string and she plays electric bass. Danny sang a few songs while he played. Their repertoire usually includes a combination of songs they have written themselves as well as some standard popular favorites. I was treated to some homespun tunes. They were very talented and I could easily have sat down and stayed. But that would have been quite rude, so I moved along.

The days are getting longer and I am very grateful for that. It is not as cold, but I wouldn’t classify the weather here in the pacific northwest as “warm” in mid May. I am going to close the flap now on the tent as it is getting dark. I have a few exercises left to do, then I will crawl inside this sleeping bag and see if I can catch a few winks. Tomorrow includes some steep climbs. I am not sure how far I will go; this time I will let my body dictate that one. 

Good night!

Thursday, May 16, 2013

Eureka! Gold Rush Grief


The morning of May 15, 2014, I awakened to a redwood forest morning with clouds rolling in. As I packed up my gear, I noted a baby bird on my picnic table. I looked up and saw that, if it fell from a nest from the lowest branch, it would be dead, so it must have at least some flight capabilities. I planned to cup it in my hands and take it to the ranger station next to the campground, as soon as I was packed up. So, I folded my tent and turned back and, lo and behold, the tiny critter had left. I looked all around the ground but couldn’t find it. I heard its tiny chirping a good 20 feet away but still couldn’t find it. Then silence. I will have to trust Mama G on this one. As on all things on this planet. Nature has its way.

The ride was beautiful but slow along the Avenue. The road is not always the greatest and the bumps and rivets effectively slowed me down. When I rejoined the 101, the travel was much quicker and I made good time to Fortuna. I stopped at a Starbucks to refuel and check messages. While sipping a blonde roast, I met Benji Bendarez. Of Native American heritage, this slim, ageless, attractive man with long curling hair came for a chat. In no time, he shared his passion with me: he is an incredible artist. Sculpting, metalwork, painting, and music. He is retired and I think he said he was 66 or 67. But he looked about 45. Simply beautiful. As was his work. He had a photobook of some of his works. He doesn’t even sell it. Incredible. I told him he needs a manager because his talent is supreme. He said he does the art for art’s sake. If it sells, that is great. If it doesn’t, that’s ok too. It is the process of creating that completes him. He works in his shop, or warehouse, and his land and home are decorated with scupltures, hangings, paintings, etc. While he loves travel, he loves making his art come alive even more. He spends a good deal of time outside, collecting scraps from nature and even industrial discard that he can recreate into beautiful things. He showed me photos of a few chairs he made from metal scraps found on the ground or in industrial yards. I saw a photo of a glistening metal globe with inlaid copper countries on a fascinating stand and with a shining angel perched overhead. Gorgeous work. 

His art had beauty as well as meaning. Some art is functional. Some is art for art’s sake. Some has a deeper meaning. All of it is art. His art had all of the above, wrapped into a single piece. I loved that globe!

Blessings, Benji! May you continue to create with those gifted hands and that seeing soul.

I pulled into Eureka, CA in the late afternoon, stopping at a Kmart for a new bungee cord and tropical trail mix. I am staying at the Super 8 for a few days to try, once again, to catch up. The Kmart did not have a decent camera so I need to shop a bit today. But it is already early afternoon. I have had 2 phone conversations, multiple emails, exercises, and blogs to complete. Then to shop for that camera. Then back to see if I can upload the blogs and do other website management. 

Funny how the “paperwork” never ends. Even on an epic journey. Jeez!

Note about Eureka so far. I came out of the redwoods to cleared land, from Scotia and Rio Dell to Eureka. Logging companies, industrial sites, and, not kidding, some sadness. Even though it is a college town, the people I met on the streets seemed woebegone.

I have seen homeless in LA. I have seen poverty in small towns. But I have seen the happy side of these same people. Here, in Eureka, I am passing people arguing, fighting, yelling in the streets, and alleys. Sitting in front of dirty stores on dirty sidewalks with hopeless eyes and meager bags.

It is like an area that lost its soul in the industrialization and land rape from the gold rush, logging industry clearing millions of trees, and now, mining for natural gas. Other areas have undergone industrialization but, sometimes, when the change is ongoing and relatively recent, there are still scars that are palpable. I realize that I am only seeing a fragment of what is here and impressions can be so wrong. But this area saddens me. Especially after the glory of the deep redwoods and the down to earth mountain folk, eking out their living with little pubs, stores, and gardens. 

Poverty can have many faces. You can live without riches, but not without soul. That is not living. 

There has got to be more.

To give Eureka credit, it is a college town, so there are a lot of young people here and that brings a certain zest to a town. 

But, mid afternoon, after wandering around, I still feel a sadness here. 

Maybe I just need to go camping again. Tomorrow night. And beyond.