On Thursday, the morning of of May 9, 2013, I awakened to some very cool weather. While I was bound up in my space blanket and had multiple clothing layers, I was still a bit cold. I was told they served free coffee at the campground store at 8 am; this was motivation but I didn’t really need it. I was anxious to get on the road because my plan was to reach Fort Bragg, 60 miles away, and this would be a long haul. So, I packed up the goods and headed for the little store, riding Henry David to save time. The store wasn’t open yet and there were no signs of life. I was out of food anyway, so decided to head for Gualala and pick up my coffee there and maybe some food. So I cycled out of the beautiful redwoods by the river and got on the road. 

Gualala is a pretty little fishing town and is keen on the arts. That is something it shares in common with most of these sonoma coast and northern California coast towns---a love of the arts. You are almost guaranteed to find little art galleries or homes with signs posted, welcoming you to come check out local arts and crafts. Even in towns of just a few hundred people, the arts abound. You may not find a gas station and god forbid a MacDonalds or Wallyworld. But mom and pop shops, restaurants, inns, lodges, and art abound. And boating and fishing. And billets on the store windows advertising a band or musician at the coffee shop or a pancake breakfast at the firehouse. It seems like a good life.

If the sun would just shine more often.

I stopped in Anchor Bay and purchased water and a few snacks. I even got a good cup of coffee and a chocolate chip cookie right out of the oven. Junk food that hit the spot and gave me a sense of euphoria. I told myself I needed that for the day ahead. Usually I eat fruit and trailmix. I poured half of the gallon of water in my marine bladder and gave the other half away to a man in the coffee shop. 

While securing the cycle, I met a retired judge who came by to look at HD. He owns a house in San Francisco and one in Anchor Bay. He spends about half of each week at each place. Just because. He did not want to chat about himself and was reluctant to tell me more than that. When I asked him what gave him joy, he said that, at his age, being vertical and alive was enough. He looked fairly young and healthy to me, so I think he will have joy and verticality for a long time yet! 

I stopped in Point Arena as the hills were getting to me and I was getting hungry. Several times over the last 2 days, I ran across a good looking French couple cycling the Pacific Coast, Robert and Silvie. Robert sometimes needed help with translating my English to French, and Silvie provided that service as needed. They are a middle aged couple and the language barrier prevented deeper conversations. They were primarily camping and Robert was carrying the heavier stuff while the very tiny Silvie carried two panniers. They looked like they were traveling fairly light for the trip. I have something to learn from them, that’s for sure. I met them again in Point Arena. They also had camped at Gualala but at the state campground. Silvie expressed some discouragement from the lack of sunshine along this part of the coast. While they generally cycled faster than I do, I kept passing them up as they took more rest breaks. Today, they were only going a little further to check out the Point Arena lighthouse and nearby campground. They were definitely enjoying themselves and it reminded me how lucky I am to be on this trip. I have met cyclists from Canada, France, Germany, Italy, and who knows where else. The PCH tour is a biggie, that’s for sure. It is interesting because the road is difficult. It is hilly and narrow and there are many miles without a shoulder to speak of. Yet, the vehicles are used to the cyclists so give them a wide berth. Still, when I converse with the locals, they always tell me of some terrible accident and death with vehicles, RV’s etc. I don’t hear that many tales of cyclists dying on the road. It is not really a wonder----vehicles give me a very wide space, crossing over into the other lane. Because there is a turn every 10 ft (ok, I exaggerate, but it is REALLY a curvy road!), it is dangerous to cross over the line because you can’t see around the corner. They call this stretch of road “The Dramamine Highway” because you can get carsick from all the turns and hills and dips. I go too slow to get dizzy, but my legs are getting a serious workout. I have been getting very discouraged because it is just work, work, and more work. Steep hills yes. But the drop on the other side takes only a few seconds in comparison, not long enough for my legs to recover. There were a few times over the last few days that I almost wanted to whine about it. Luckily, there is no one around. I hate it when I whine.

Usually, life changes so fast, that what you whined about one minute ago is replaced with unspeakable joy. A new vista. A red-winged blackbird. A spout in the ocean, suggesting a whale passing by (it is migration season!). A surfer in wetsuit riding a wave with perfect form. A group of senior citizens perched on a cliff with easels and paints, capturing their view of the ocean. And don’t forget about the little pleasures that mean so much. A really good coffee that warms you inside and out, just when you need it. A sweet banana giving you that little boost. Jalapeno potato chips when you feel weak kneed. Peanut butter. And stopping at the end of the day.

I often joke that the reason I like to exercise is that it feels so damn good when I STOP!

The day’s cycling was very hard, but the road evened out after Mendocino. Boy, was I grateful. Leanna, at the Super 8, directed me into Fort Bragg to the motel and gave me a good deal on the room. One of those instances where they beat the Expedia price hands down. 

Leanna is pretty pregnant with her 4th child. She has 2 teenagers and a 3 year old. She works at two jobs and goes to school. She was friendly and kind and has “Barbara Streissand eyes”. She says she has been told that all her life and says she is grateful she doesn’t have a Barbara Streissand nose. But I think it would be great to have Barbara’s voice!!! Leanna gets her joy from her children. She loves to work and to stay busy. From the looks of it, she is getting her desires---children and work and staying busy!!!

I took a much needed shower--very much needed. Then bopped next door to eat! The little restaurant that is affiliated with the Super 8 gives a 10% discount to the motel customers. And they just added a small but adequate vegetarian menu. Even though I try to stay away from gluten, I really was hungry. I ordered the veggie burger and fries. And ate every bit of that dinner. Usually, that kind of meal makes me sick to my stomach as it is too heavy and not really nutritious. But the empty tummy begged to be filled. And I filled it. And didn’t get sick. I will behave tomorrow! Or at least after I leave Fort Bragg and am on the road again. 

I retired to my room and watched the 2nd half of The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel while I sorted some stuff from my bags. What a great movie! I will stay here a few days and catch up with a myriad of responsibilities. One being to catch up with all this blogging and post on the website!

Good night!