Texas Hill Country

November 10, 2013

I got up in the morning and packed up Henry David in the early morning light. I popped back in and gave Shannon a hug, kiss, and warm goodbye before hitting the road. I cycled through Austin to get to the west end of town. Luckily, the traffic was light as it was Sunday morning on a holiday weekend. 

This was now officially Texas Hill Country. It is really quite stunning. The higher the elevation, the drier it gets. So cedars and oaks give way to more grassy plains. There are a few rivers and lakes, but most of the lakes are actually manmade, catching the river water and supplying water to the small towns. Apparently, there is quite a water issue here, as the usage of water by homeowners and golf courses are affecting the rice farms and other agricultural needs in the valleys downstream. The ground is pure granite, so getting water out means drilling through tough rock. 

I read an article about the oil drillers who do fracking around here. Because water is limited, they are now adopting recyling practices instead of simply using all the effluent water and polluting the water table. About time.

It’s usually about money. Not altruism. Man, as a species, is just not that good. If you want policies to change for the betterment of the planet, and you think that people will make changes in their lifestyle and their business practices because it’s the “right” thing to do, well, think again. But when a price tag is in place, making planetary respect the economical thing to do, then policy can be changed. Yay for recycling water! 

In a gas station about 15 miles from Marble Falls, I met a man named Robert today. He has held many jobs in his life, most of them quite successful. He has been all over the world in the pro golf circuit. Now, he doesn’t play golf much anymore due to some serious spinal surgeries, but he still has a hand in the field. Literally. He designs and builds golf courses. He has built them all over Texas and is very familiar with the water issues. Most golf courses now water their grass with gray water, which is cheaper than potable water and adds fertilizer to the soil. Robert has always been such a busy man that he doesn’t like to sit around. So, even though he runs a successful company, he took on a part time job cooking on weekend nights at Poodies--a popular night spot in the area with live music. We had a great talk about the world, politics, and Texas water.

I crossed the Colorado river twice: in Austin and again in Marble Falls, my destination for today. I understand the Colorado river is shrinking, like so many others. Still, it was cool to cycle over it. Twice.

About 5 miles from Marble Falls, I left hwy 71 and turned north on 281. This was not such a pleasant road, but I had a great road most of the day, so I had no complaints. HD and I rolled into town in the late afternoon. I got an inexpensive room at the Hill Country Inn, a modest but clean motel. I did my usual nightly activities, grabbing a bean burrito for dinner from the convenience store at the end of the block. 

Time is so fascinating on the road. Each day is a new place and things seem so long ago. Austin seemed like last week, not last night. New Orleans seems like a month ago, not just over a week ago. 

Strange. Time.

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Monday, November 11, 2013

Veterans Day on the road. No parades, no flags. I spent a good part of the day thinking about veterans, war, battle, diplomacy, international understanding. It was a bit different not to see a veteran friend in person and thank them. Just lonely stretches of road with very few towns. The area is becoming more and more rural. I see some farms and ranches, but mostly just wild land. Feels like home. I’m still in hill country, and will be for several more days, so the ride was challenging but good. I am averaging a very slow pace, even though the load is much lighter. I gave up my camping gear as I figured I could stay in motels for the rest of the 2 weeks I expect to be on the road. Nights are long and cool and the idea of sitting in a cold tent for 11-12 hours is just not appealing. 

After an uneventful but pleasant day on the road, I reached Llano, Texas in the early afternoon. It was a short ride today as the next ride to Brady would be hilly and long, with no opps for lodging in between. The signs welcoming you to Llano read:

“We Welcome Hunters”. It is a town of 3000 but has limited services. It does have a few restaurants luring in the hunting crowd. In the evening, I walked by a store that sells hunting gear with a neon, lighted deer hung upside down in fresh kill fashion, with a red pool of blood dripping from its heart. 

Welcome to Llano!

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Tuesday, November 12, 2013

An Arctic blast arrived today, with a North wind of 20-25 mph predicted, thus keeping me in Llano, as I would have to struggle not only with hills but an unreasonable headwind. Tomorrow, the forecast suggests a mild wind, maybe even a slight tailwind. So, I took the opportunity to stay here today and write. I’ve been working on the blogs since New Orleans and have been at it almost 4 hours. My neck hurts, my bottom hurts, and I think I’m ready to do something else! 

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Wednesday, November 13, 2013

Another day through the hills, this time to Brady, Texas. Brady is in McCulloch County, which is the geographical center of Texas. It is also the last of my time in Texas Hill Country. It was over 50 miles today of road--no gas stations or towns or convenience stores. This meant finding bushes, trees, and culverts to take care of bladder business. At one point, I took a “break” to hide in a culvert to relieve myself. While I was busy tucking my tank top back into the waist band of my pants, I heard a voice overhead, “Excuse me, ma’am. Are you ok down there?”

I look up to see an attractive police officer, peering over the railing of the culvert. While my face burned hot, I laughed with embarrassment and answered, “I am fine, officer. No problems!”

“I saw the bike parked at the side of the road and I was concerned” he responded.

Now, truly embarassed, I answered, “Everything is ok, officer, I just needed to take a leak!”

“Are you sure you’re ok, then?”

“Yes, sir, I’m fine”.

I climbed back up the culvert and climbed back on the trike and took off. I should have taken the time to go back to the squad car to talk to him as I bet he had some fantastic stories to share. But, I guess I was a bit embarassed still, and so, off I went. 

The hills were diminishing in grade and the flora was changing. The trees were getting smaller and more scrublike. I rolled into Brady in the late afternoon and found the Sunset Inn. It was situated next to a McDonalds, so I went next door and got a coffee. Then I settled into the motel for the evening, with exercises and laundry to do. It was a long day but I was energized. Tomorrow would be a shorter ride and there was a wonderful gift at the end of it.

Peter would be coming from Lubbock and would be my “roadie” for the next 3 days. 

Yay!!

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Thursday, November 14, 2013

It was only about 35 miles today. I practically raced to Eden, TX today, checking into the Slumber Inn at the west edge of town. This was another small town, dotted with a few residential motels for workers and one viable motel for travelers. I waited for Peter to arrive in the evening, finishing my exercises beforehand. We ate the goodies he brought in his car. So nice to see him again.

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Friday, November 15, 2013

It was close to 50 miles today, from Eden to San Angelo, TX. There were enough towns that coffee and bathroom stops were available. But Peter met me on the road with snacks and hugs and encouragement. He checked into the San Angelo Inn in the early afternoon and I arrived mid afternoon. We had plenty of time to take a walk in the park, hand in hand, marveling at the sights along the Concho River. 

San Angelo has an annual Christmas celebration, lighting up the river for the “Tour of Lights”, which is now a 2.5 mile driving tour. While it was not yet Thanksgiving, the light structures were either already going up or being set up. The river, by Fort Concho, is a delightfully well kept river through San Angelo. In Carlsbad, we have the Pecos River and we celebrate “Christmas on the Pecos”. You can take boat rides along the part of the river where the riverfront homes are located. The owners, or community volunteers, set up fantastic light displays in the back yards, which extend down to the river itself. The boatswains play Christmas music and give you thick blankets in which to enwrap yourself to stay warm in the cold December night air. This reminded me of the approaching NM destination. 

We went to dinner at a precious home that had been converted to a chic restaurant. It was definitely a higher class than the Subway or convenient store dinners I utilize when I’m alone! Thank you, Peter!

I think I’m liking this “roadie” deal!!