Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Texas and back to New Mexico

Day 3: March 26th.  Tuesday---I cycled into El Paso and zipped across the northern end to reach the northwest side. The first 40 miles were hard: I felt I was cycling through molasses, but there was a gradually increasing climb, so I suppose it makes sense. Then, down another "hill" and on into El Paso, Texas, for the next 25-30. It was a fairly uneventful ride. Highlights?  Purple Heart Drive is really great--good road, bicycle path, fast moving. I had to exit a mile early d/t road construction. Shannon and I stayed at the Candlewood Inn and Suites. We caught up on our coffee deficit, took hot showers, and I even did the laundry! Shannon heated up our dinner with the stove in the room, so we had a sumptuous feast of leftovers again, this time even more delicious. Am I just getting hungry?

We caught up on some emails and didn't hit the pillows till past midnight. A bed was nice...

Day 4: March 27: Today I followed google bike maps to cycle into Las Cruces, winding through the agricultural valley bordering the Rio Grande. While the river was dry on the surface, the verdant fields suggested a plentiful underground water supply. Cycling through small towns of very old farms and ranches was a special treat. There was a 2 mile stretch of pecan trees, with branches almost touching over the road. In the summer, it must be simply heaven. The pecans are still leafless, but the tips are just beginning to swell.

Upon arrival in LC, I took Henry David to Outdoor Adventures for a tune up and to ask some questions about the rear derailleur as I told the manager I really couldn't use the largest rear sprocket as I hear dragging chain. Well, we found the problem---it is now grounded, but hopefully for just tomorrow if we can rig a fix. So, now I may be able to catch up on the website--blog and photos.

At some point, we should hunt up some vittles, besides these delightful Leal's tortilla chips.
We are, after all, New Mexican/Californians. Bring on some chile and we will be smiling wide.

So, guess we get a day "off"...

First two days...


Day 1, Sunday, March 24th, 2013: I left home around 10:10 am. I had a warm good bye and wishes of good luck from my BFF Truth--who has remained, and always will, as my loyal and wise support team, her husband Dan, and from Esteban, my beautiful knight in shining armour, who has lent his mechanical skills and vast knowledge to help me prepare for this adventure. From Shannon, my youngest daughter, I got a quick kiss and “see ya later!”, as she has taken some time to join me. It was a nice easy take off and I made it to White City in good time. 

About 1/4 mile from White City, I stopped to take a photo of the Apache Trading Post--which was closed. There was an enthusiastic young Chinese engineer taking photos. We shared a quick conversation. He was born in China and moved to Canada about 9 years ago. He then moved to Carlsbad quite recently and works as an engineer designing pipe for natural gas and oil pipelines. He was very friendly and I just thought he was fantastic! His family is still in Canada and will join him for part of the summer. He has a wife and 2 (or was it 3?) children. On most weekends he drives around the area and does a little sightseeing. He jokingly said that he spent 9 years in Canada, maybe now he can spend 9 years in the USA! When he retires, he told me he’d let me know and would invite me to cycle around China. Well, by that time, I’ll be pretty long in the tooth and may need a motor on my cycle. Not only that, but the perimeter of China is just a tad bigger than the US!!!

Then, I arrived in White City. This is the town that is the gateway to the Carlsbad Caverns. It used to be owned by the White family. About 6 yrs ago, they sold it to another family and, just like the original owners, the whole fam damily owns the town: grocery, curios, museum, motels. Every one has a job. It’s really pretty darn cool. I know one of the many owners as she is a nurse in Carlsbad. While in the parking lot, a young lady in shorts and a Loyola U t-shirt stopped to say Hi. She was a cute young lady, strawberry blonde and graced with a spattering of light freckles. She is from Michigan (or was in Minnesota---that’s what happens when I have to wait more than 24 hrs to write...) and told me that she and her brother were on spring break and traveling, camping, etc, before heading back to school. She entertained and delighted me with the wonderful story of how her parents met. It appears that her dad, as a young man, applied for a job as a cycling tour guide. While he did not get the job, he nevertheless decided to lead a tour on his own. Which he did. He was joined by several cyclists for a nice long cycling tour. During that very first solo tour, he met a young lady and, by the end of the trip, they were in love. The rest is history. They got married, had 2 happy children, and still run a bike shop!! 

I love these stories.

I also met a retired man and his wife in that same parking lot. They travel about 1/2 the year and then visit grandchildren, etc. This is a growing pattern in retirees and one that is thoroughly enjoyed amongst those adventurous couples who enjoy each others company after 40 yrs of marriage. Yay!! What do they enjoy: travel. What gives them joy: their grandchildren.
When I reached the Texas state line, I was intercepted by Sammy and Yvette. This gentleman works in the oil industry. Prior to that, he laid quite a bit of barbed fence line, pointing in all directions from where I stood. He apparently loves the lure of the outdoors. He also loves the idea of cycling across the country. Over the last 2 weeks, he met 2 different cyclists cutting through our end of the country. He read the article in our local newspaper describing my own personal voyage and he knew that I was planning to leave some time this weekend. So he grabbed his lovely wife and said, “let’s take a drive and see if we can find her!” Which they did! What a nice gift it was to be intercepted by people I didn’t even know who went out of their way to offer their blessings and tell me they would keep me in their prayers.

People just amaze me. 

We humans are capable of the most heinous crimes and the most beautiful acts.

Well, after the Texas State line, I ran out of steam. Out of electrolytes, out of everything. But still with about 18 miles to go--the hardest 18. It was only by sheer determination, desperation, and stubbornness that I made it to the peak. Shannon ran late due to a problem with her key chain car alarm (it wouldn’t shut off because the battery was dying). I texted her to call Esteban: I think he can fix anything. By the time he responded, she had driven to Radio Shack and replaced the battery in the little rascal. He drove up to the Guadalupe Mountain State Park, looking for her, thinking the problem happened up at the campground. By the time he showed up, I was just riding into the park and the sun had set. I set up the tent in the dark and it was seriously cold up there. Shannon arrived and we were so cold we just skipped any thoughts of dinner and hunkered down in our sleeping bags. LouDog is her companion, a petite male dalmatian who absolutely adores her. We enjoyed his company and we took a photo of him in the tent, wearing a head lamp, with Shannon kissing his cheek. I will try to get that onto the website. Precious.

He groaned in his LouDog way until Shannon covered him with a blanket. He was cold too! Usually when he groans, he is making his requests known. It is up to the canine--iliterate humans to figure out what he is saying.

Day 2: March 25, 2013: We drug ourselves into the cold morning at 7:30 am. The campground host said it was 22 deg. For us desert rats and southern california girls, that is pretty darn cold! My fingers were numb and the water in the camelback tube was frozen. I didn’t even bother to change my clothes, just got everything packed up. That uber-kind campground host brought me a cup of coffee, which I polluted with sweetener. Shannon was pretty ticked off about that, but she was sitting nice and warm in the car with the heater on while I packed up my gear. She had to drive on in to Cornudas for coffee--about a 45 minute drive. 

The wind coming down the mountain through the passe was heavy and cold and I had to pump the brakes to keep from feeling like I was being blown off the road. I also used my right foot to assist as a brake, chewing up the cheap rubber on my wallyworld shoes. Sacrificial brakes, I thought! Anyway, the anxiety caused by the strong cross winds kept my mind off the cold air!

When I gain faith in the cycle brakes, I will use my shoe less...

Once I got off the mountains, the wind moved to my back and I had a nice tailwind all the way to Cornudas, to May’s Cafe. May and her daughters run this spot--a cafe, little curio shop, and campground. She allows cyclists to camp for free, even though Shannon was driving a car. This spot is a favorite of truckers and is the only place to grab a cup and a meal between White City and El Paso. They are famous for their burgers--we took their word for it as we are vegetarians. Shannon pulled out the leftovers from home and we feasted on cold rice noodles with a thick tomato/pepper sauce, cheese (thanks for the Drunken Goat Cheese--you know who you are!), avocados, and salad. I am now thoroughly stuffed. But still comfortable. 
So now, we will hang out in the tent for a few hours (almost 7 pm now) as the air is kinda cold again. I am double, almost triple layered but still feeling the cold. Tomorrow I will try to drag myself outta here by 8 and am facing about a 12 hour cycling day, IF the wind is kind! We will stay in a hotel--I spent way more than I wanted but it was the only hotel directly on the route we are taking. So, a nice hot shower tomorrow night, a bed with an actual mattress, and coffee in the room!

The next day will be a relatively short day--from north-eastern El Paso into Las Cruces. Thus, the first 4 days will be “hard day, easy day, hard day, easy day”. After that, I face more mountains but the wind is forecasted to be in my face, from west to east, as it usually is. 

I am grateful Shannon is here to help me through this most difficult part of the journey---the first leg, as we cross the lonely desert in the hefty spring winds, dealing with dirt, fluctuating temperatures, and no relief of a 7-11 between stops. 

I think I will cash in on all those prayers...

Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Countdown!

Today the Current Argus article came out. Natalie Gross did a fantastic job--a young, talented reporter. I hope she reaches all of her dreams!
Now I am watching the weather patterns a few times a day. It's Tuesday and I can leave by Friday. But, alas. The wind is projected to be quite vigorous, and in my face! It is supposed to shift by Monday. If we're lucky, it will shift Saturday and we will head outta Dodge. And into the sunset--as we will head west.
Daughter Shannon is here and plans to join me during the first week. She will drive and locate our campsite, work on her numerous projects on her MacAir, and we will enjoy the sites and sounds of the desert and wonder at the rugged, gorgeous mountain ranges that explode out of the SW desert with refreshing regularity.
I have a few projects left to complete before take-off. But, things are falling into place with incredible precision. Gotta measure the trike chains and count the links. My mechanic is very exacting and wants me to keep track of this stuff. This is difficult for me. But I will do as he suggests. Then I will call him in a month and say, "Now why did I have to do all that counting?" Tonight I hope to clean and spray the chains with a teflon and silicone spray. Again---following advice. It's the right thing to do. Especially when you don't know what you're doing---best to listen to the experts!
I am so incredibly excited---it is all coming to pass. Last night I pulled out the cycling maps and, while the roads will be a definite challenge, the things I will see will more than make up for sore muscles and joints.
Gotta get some yoga plan in place for nightly recovery from the day's activities.
Life is sweet.
Jo

Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Hobbs ShakeDown journey

On Monday, March 11, I started out on a shakedown trip on good ole Henry David. It took an extraordinary amount of time to pack it up---I have yet to weigh all my gear. Hobbs is 70 miles from Carlsbad and you pass through oil and mining country. There is a slight elevation change--300-500 ft over about 50 miles. The last 15-20 or so seem fairly flat. The scenery at this time of year is dry and a bit drab. The county burned quite a bit of brush last fall to reduce water consumption. The weather was gentle on the way to Hobbs with a very light tailwind. On the way back home, there was a strong crosswind, hitting me broadside, for about the first 15 miles. I thought, "OK, I'm just gonna suck it up and then take a nice long shower, drink coffee and cream, and cuddle up in a blanket when I get home. I can do this!" But blessings abound! The wind changed speed and direction and gave me another light tailwind. I wanna write on my cycle: "May you be blessed with tailwinds!"
As always, I try to be observant, at least during Part of the ride. When I'm not jammin' to my ipod or Pandora! Even then, I try to notice and appreciate what is going on around me. So, here are some delightful events. For me, anyway.
On the way to Hobbs, about 20 miles from destination, I stopped HD (my trike) to stretch my legs. A good Samaritan in a bright yellow van stopped to make sure I was OK. We had a brief conversation and we shared a little about ourselves. He is a salesman from El Paso and was on his way to Lubbock, TX. He sells Nopalina, a fiber drink mix made from flax seed, oat and wheat bran, cactus leaves, and some fruit extracts. He handed me about 15-20 packets of the stuff and I shoved them in every little corner of my cargo hold that wasn't already packed. I told him how to make flaxseed crackers. (In fact, this morning, I opened 4 of his packets, added flaxseed, dried tomatoes, and water--let it soak all day and then blended it to break up the tomatoes. Now the mix is spread on a dehydrator tray and I will have some tomato nopalina crackers tomorrow!). Anyway, this kind man's name is Cesar Chavez. No southwestern resident is unfamiliar with that name---he was a famous farmer, laborer, and activist who helped create the National Farm Workers Association. Anyway, this is not the same man, lol, but a decent person just the same. So. If you get some nopalina mix (think--tastes like metamucil--yeck), think of this wonderful man who stopped to help a stranger. If you don't like the taste, make crackers!!
While in Hobbs, a good friend came to join me for dinner and we went to a cycle shop. While the owner and his wife did not have what I needed (elastic mesh), we had a delightful conversation about cycling. He had recently purchased for his wife a top-o-the-line Schwinn, cost 8 grand. I picked it up with one hand and raised it overhead. It was an engineering masterpiece and I wanted to jump on and give it a spin. But I refrained. Steven's Auto and Cycle shop, I believe, is the name of the business. The owners said they would keep me in their prayers. For this I am truly grateful. I send them goodness.
Now, on the way home, I had some more fun. This is what I see.
There are a lot of truckers out here. This is a lonely desert area. Miles between cities. Truckers and oil workers dominate the roads. It's a somewhat lonely life. Truckers note what is going on out there.  When I drive through town, I am fairly ignored. Well, not entirely. HD is a sight--not like a regular cycle. But, out on the road, truckers wave, honk, give me a thumbs up. It is an instant link--travelers on the road: the lonely, beautiful road. It makes us family. It is heartwarming.
A train track paralleled the road and, lo and behold, a lovely train from the mines rolled by. I stopped the cycle to take photos, as this is another part of the southwest. Mines, ranches, oil, and trains. It is a part of Americana. If you drive a car, eat food, and buy anything at all, you better appreciate the above list. Anyhoo---as I was taking photos, the train approached and the conductor waved out the window, sticking his head out a bit so I could capture him. Then we gave each other the thumbs up. It was a bit far away and I haven't harnessed the power of my camera, but I will try to at least get the train on the site.
There is a bar/restaurant halfway between Hobbs and Carlsbad. In fact, it is called The Halfway Bar & Grill. I stopped on the way to Hobbs and got a drink, used the privy, and texted kids to let them know where I was. On the way back, I stopped again and the lady that works the bar/restaurant greeted me with a big smile, recognizing me from the day before. She excitedly told me that a man stopped in yesterday after I left, asking if I'd been there and when she said yes, he wanted to know if I was married as he needed a woman "to spend [his] money on"!!
This is how this affected me:  there is a kismet on the road among travelers. These truckers, miners, oil workers work incredibly long hours. They make good money but often don't have time to develop personal relationships outside of their jobs. Seeing other travelers on the road give them a feeling of knowingness. They want to help each other, when there is a need. I was touched by his interest--not because he was actually interested in "me", it's just that he wanted to reach out to another person who might understand the lonely, yet often friendly, life that we all lead. We are all in this world together, yet we are also alone in our deepest thoughts and fears and hopes and dreams.
Here is to all you people out there. May we be One and yet Many.