Carolina On My Mind

Monday, September 23rd, 2013.

HD and I hit the road shortly after 7 am, attempting to miss some of the Wilmington traffic but still late enough to have good morning light. Traffic was thick in the midst of Wilmington, but sidewalks made it manageable. 

We arrived at the Fort Fisher ferry shortly after 10 and had a 45 minute wait for the next one on the schedule. There was a single vehicle in line, so I pulled up beside her on the grass. Shortly thereafter, the driver got out of the car to say hello. This was Angie, a beautiful self-proclaimed “hobo”. She is 46 years old, but looks a good 10 years younger, with her fresh face and long wavy blonde hair. She said she had been on the road, off and on, for over a year. She had traversed the country, even to Alaska and back, stopping at her home territory to visit her daughters in Kansas between trips. WIth Kansas as a home base, she had traveled in all directions, like the spokes of a wheel. To finance her trip by car, she worked for brief periods in Alaska and Florida, picking up a few days here and there between those 2 states. 

Angie started her family young, raised them, and then decided to do what she always wanted to do---travel and just see what’s out there. I understood entirely. After all, I’m doing pretty much the same thing, but by cycle rather than by car. 

Angie tries not to overplan things. That is probably where we differ. I spend quite a bit of time on maps and making decisions. Part of this is due to necessity. I can’t ride on just any road I might choose, but have to travel those roads that are legal, somewhat legal, and safest. I always have a place to sleep---whether it be in a motel room or in my tent in an established campground or with a family, friend, or good samaritan. Angie sleeps in her vehicle, a Sienna, with the back seats down and tricked out like a little bedroom. Often this is in a Walmart parking lot or in a quiet neighborhood. She finds various places to shower---a park, truck stop, or campground. However, it is not in her budget to stay in motels or campgrounds. She cooks her food on a single burner propane campstove, often purchasing 1 to 3 days worth of food at roadside stands, farmers’ markets, or the occasional grocery store. 

When not driving to a new location, Angie rides her bike around town, does yoga, and plays hula hoop for exercise. She is redefining what “play” means to her and she says she has learned to live in the moment. Before leaving home and hearth, she raised her children and, once they were established, and her mother passed away (sound familiar so far?), she sold her house and most of her worldly possessions, and took off on the road. She is single and beautiful and kindhearted and not sure if she is ready for another romantic relationship. She has been divorced 6 years, as have I. We laughed at the similarities in our journeys. I talked to her about meeting people through POF--Plenty of Fish, or maybe Match.com.  That way, she can take her time and just talk to people. She is a bit afraid of the dating scene, but the internet dating thing might help her take it slowly. Many of these sites allow you to specify if you just want friendship, a penpal, dating, or a serious relationship. In the meantime, she travels alone.

Once the cars drove onto the ferry, the cyclists were instructed to board. I was parked by a husband and wife cycling couple, Rich and Gwen. This was a very attractive pair: healthy, active, and friendly. Rich is “semi-retired”, having worked for several years in communication technology and software development. Now, he works part time, choosing jobs that interest him. This keeps him busy but perhaps busier than he wants sometimes. He is very athletic and would love nothing better than to actively play every day. As it is, he cycles and runs and swims. He and a friend get together once a week for “boot camp”, which is a very serious exercise program that lasts 60-90 minutes. He and his buddy plan out the evening’s bootcamp, which generally consists of a combination of several strenuous exercise regimens, sequenced without rest. So, a session might include 15 minutes of stair running, crawling several hundred feet, jumping over hurdles or even with a jumprope, push ups, running, and calisthenics. 

Gwen has worked with her husband for several years, which is easier some days than others. Both Rich and Gwen are passionate for outside exercise, cycling, and water sports. Gwen thoroughly enjoys travel.

As we were discussing these things, the captain of the ferry, MaryBeth, came to chat with us. She is a confident woman with a beautiful smile, bright eyes, and thick brown hair, which she had tied back in a pony tail. She has been running this ferry over 15 years. She also recently opened her own watersport business. She rents out boats, kayaks, and paddle surfboards. She teaches lessons on their use and leads water expeditions for individuals and groups. She gave out her business cards upon our request. I imagine that Rich and Gwen may visit her shop!  I know I certainly would if I lived here. I absolutely love to get out on the water in a kayak and would really enjoy learning how to do that paddle surfing. Her business is called Southport Paddle & Sail. Owner Captain MaryBeth Ray.

After deboarding the ferry, I cycled across the parking lot to the information center to consult my maps and figure out where I was going. I met up with Angie and invited her to my campsite for the night as she did not have a planned spot to stay and I wanted to get to know her a little better. She agreed to the plan, offering to make me dinner in return. I couldn’t beat that for a good deal so we parted for the day and she went on to play on the beach while I made my way, cycling with Henry David.

I had to cycle on hwy 17 for about 8-9 miles and North Carolina had the bright idea of giving about 24 inches of shoulder and then putting the ribs on 18 inches of that. This meant either riding in the traffic or in the grass and sand. The traffic suggested I stick to the grass and sand, so the speed of travel slowed down markedly at that point. Once off the 17, it was bliss once again, and I met Angie at the SeaMist Campground, about 35 miles from the ferry landing in Southport. 

This campground is on the intracoastal waterway and its lovely marshes. We were sent to the far corner of the campground and it appeared as if at least 90% of the campers there were semi-permanent to permanent residents, living in their large RVs. We were camped at the edge of the marsh with water birds walking ginergly through the shallow waters and mud. All night, we could hear the bubbling of the air and water through the mud. It was a really cool experience. Angie and I took a walk to the water’s edge and meandered along the short strip of beach, returned to camp, and she made a stir fried veggie dish and pasta. Marvelous!  

Angie and I talked about past loves and heartbreaks, our children, travel, work, and parts of the country we particularly enjoyed. Like me, she loves warm weather and the ocean. While on her travels, she goes to the beach as often as she can, and “plays”. Sometimes people stare but she tries not to let that stop her from simply enjoying each moment. She says she has enjoyed the solitude but, like me, she texts her family often in the evening. 

Here are a few of her traveling experiences.

She worked for 2-3 months in Florida, painting interior walls in a mansion. She even was able to hire a few workers, whom she paid with her own earnings. Living simply, this money then funded the next several months of travel. 

She worked for some summer months last year in Alaska. Even though it was the warm season, she found it somewhat depressing because it was often cloudy and rainy and she loves the sunshine. She really loved Oregon, but again, the coastal areas she prefers tend to be too cloudy and grey for too many days of the year. So, she continues to search for a possible landing place.

She sleeps in her car, often in a Walmart parking lot. Recently, she stayed there for 4 days. There was, of course, no cost to parking there overnight, and she found a place she could shower for free. She could have stayed longer, but felt she would just take root and she felt she needed to move on. 

Once, in a Walmart parking lot, in the middle of the night when she was asleep, a man tried to break into her car. She heard him checking out the doors and she sat up, very frightened and alarmed, and yelled out, “Hey, what are you doing?” Thankfully, he ran off. But, since then, she tends to ensure she is in her vehicle with all the doors locked and the windows open minimally. 

I’m grateful for the campgrounds. Now more than ever. I am grateful for those people who have helped me along the way.

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Tuesday, September 24, 2013

I left the next morning around 7:20  am and cycled into South Carolina. Shortly after crossing into South Carolina, I was back on Hwy 17, again with those nasty ribs. I learned that Carolinians, North AND South, don’t like to move out of their lanes on the highway, even when there is plenty of room. Maybe it is because the road is flat and fast and they get into a groove and really aren’t used to seeing cyclists on the highways. Luckily, it was “only” about 10 miles of that nasty road before I could get off and use city roads, as the Myrtle Beach area and surrounding burgs welcomed me. In Myrtle Beach itself, right along Ocean or Beach Blvd, the closest street to the ocean, there were bike lanes and the traffic was light and slow. It was so wonderful to be near the ocean again.

Myrtle Beach was just fun. If I were a college gal of 18-24, this would be a really enjoyable place to come for spring and summer break. It is also a perfect place for families. There were so many inexpensive miniature golf parks ($5/day!!!), arcades, restaurants, and carney rides, that it could keep kids entertained for days. I passed through the hotel district with the several story high hotels for the more financially endowed, and then through the adorable beachy motel areas too. I figured the prices would be well over $100 for the beach cottages, which looked like they were in great shape. The Hilton type hotels must run $200-300 per night, I figured. 

So, I made my way to the Myrtle Beach KOA, where I got my campsite at 35% off (10% because I’m a member, with another 25% off because the “off season” started this week). Still, at 35% off, my rate was $39, higher for a KOA campsite than any other KOA I had visited. Later that evening, while on the lookout for vittles, I saw that the motels right along the oceanfront had dropped prices to $39 for a side view room and $49 for ocean view. Some of the bigger hotels weren’t much higher!! I had spent the same amount on a campsite! LOL!!

So, if you want to visit Myrtle Beach for low, low cost, take a trip right after the first day of fall. The hotels are cheap and every price drops, but the weather is still fantastic. In fact, it won’t be as hot and humid as during the high volume midsummer. I passed so many stores that had sales for “$5 for Everything” or “Everything is 7 dollars!” All the entertainment businesses were competing for business, so I bet that even in the middle of the summer, you could enjoy a week there for a reasonable cost. 

The KOA spot was really nice, even if it was pricey. All the sites are spacious and under tall trees. The tent was smoothly laid over a bed of soft pine needles. I texted Angie; she was still in the area and joined me for another night camping. I spent the afternoon doing my exercises, showering, and then doing laundry. I traded out my predictable novel for a different one at the KOA game room. Maybe this one would capture my attention better. Even under the trees, far from the office, the internet signal was good and strong, so Angie and I listened to music on Pandora. 

Angie demonstrated her hula hoop skills. She was really good! She could do the typical waist and hip hula twirls, but also could get it rolling around arm, elbow, shoulder, and hand and could switch it from one arm to the other without missing a beat, even behind her back! I really liked it when she stood on one foot and whirled that hoop around her knee, while she grasped the foot of the other leg behind her, arching her back and still hula-ing that hoop around her knee. I snapped a few photos, but they didn’t really catch what I was seeing.

We went out that night for pizza and bought the one topping pizza on sale, leaving enough leftovers for the next day for both of us. We went to our beds, after having a wonderful day. 

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Wednesday, September 25th, 2013

Another early morning when it was light enough for safe travel, and HD and I were on our way, seeking out MacDonalds coffee on Highway 17. Today was a relatively short day to Georgetown, but I wasn’t feeling that great anyway, so I was glad to stop.  While the mileage was only about 40 miles, most of them were on that contrary road, although the bridges over the Waccamaw and Sampit Rivers were great. I was feeling a little headachey, which was quite rare, so I checked into the Baymont Inn for a great off season price, with the assistant manager giving me additional discounts for coming in on Henry David. He has been able to get me a few good deals, lemme tell ya! For the challenges he provides via width and weight, he has more than made up for it by helping me make a few friends and he has given me thousands of smiles from strangers. I hope that he has inspired a few folks to follow their dreams.

Ain’t nothing like it. 

I sat in the motel and did a lot of writing. In the evening, it rained for quite awhile, so I was glad to have the nice room in which I stayed dry. Even HD was inside. Right behind my room, right outside the window, was another marsh, connecting to the rivers I had crossed earlier that day. I watched an episode or two of “Once Upon A Time” on my MacBook via Netflix, and settled into a big bed with really fluffy pillows. My headache passed.

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Thursday, September 26th, 2013

The next morning, I was up and HD was packed by 7. I took advantage of the continental breakfast, and set out on the road. It was over 65 miles to the KOA in Ladson. This was a very rural day, with small towns spread far apart as I traveled through wooded areas. I did have a few miles of a protected bike path outside of Georgetown through the marsh areas. I was beginning to see more Spanish moss and the weather was more humid here. I liked it!

About 8 miles from Jamestown, near the Francis Marion National Forest, I popped the chain off the front derailleur, and it jammed betweed the sprocket and the derailleur bar. It took a few minutes of greasy work to get it back on, but then my front derailleur would no longer shift gears. It would run on the smallest front sprocket and so I used the rear gears to make the trike “rideable”. Still, I knew I needed to find a bike shop. I looked at the derailleur but couldn’t see anything very clearly. Better find someone with better eyesight and a lot more know-how! All the towns---all two of them, that is---between my location and Ladson, my destination, were pretty small. Even Ladson was a relatively rural town. 

So, I cycled on to the nearest town on my route, Jamestown, and stood up with iPhone in hand to see if I should go to Charleston instead. While I peered at the iPhone screen, a young man stopped and asked where I was traveling. When I told him briefly about the trip, he asked what were a few of the remarkable experiences. I told him about the deer and how curious they are and how I come upon them before they move away. I told him I had met some of the most hospitable people in the world. He asked where I was heading and I explained that I was heading for Ladson but maybe I should go to Charleston, because of the gear shift issue. He advised Charleston for sure, and hey, did I want a ride? He would be driving right next to a bike shop. He had an SUV and was pulling a metal trailer. 

This was almost too funny. I had talked to Peter the night before (I believe I have mentioned him once or twice), and told him that I sometimes feels as if I travel in a bubble of protection. The weather has been great, people have been friendly, deals fall into my lap, and, when I need help, people just show up. They just show up. I haven’t had to flag anyone down. They just show up and offer. 

This kind young man, Barclay, said he was on his way home with this trailer, which belonged to his parents-in-law, and he would be passing right by the bike shop where he bought his own road bike. I said, “Sure!”  I purchased rope at the convenient store and Barclay tied HD down and off we went to Mount Pleasant, which is just north of Charleston. 

When riding down that road, I was so grateful for the assistance. The road was busy, narrow, and had those dag-gum ribs! Barclay called it a death trap, for cars too!  I’m hoping to reach better highways soon. Riding those ribs shakes my brain in its cage.

So, Barclay. He has a degree in business, I believe, and, with a former college friend, they recently purchased a medical software business. He had spent that very morning at a hospital in Charleston, consulting with them on how to better manage their medical and business information. Barclay is a father of 3 small children: ages 4, 2, and 2 months. His wife takes care of the little ones during the day, but it is very taxing and he tries to help as much as he can while still running this new business. His stress level is high, but he feels that he is young and able to handle it for now. He loves to ride his own road bike and tries to get in at least a few hours each week.  He was full of questions and he impressed me as a very bright young man. His wife called, wondering what was taking him so long to get home. He sent her a message back, explaining his morning events and the additional act of coming to the rescue of a lady on a trike. 

Thank you, Barclay, for taking the time to help me out!!

John, at the Bike Shoppe in Mt Pleasant, took care of HD right away. He checked the twist shifter and its cable and then the cable wires at the derailleur. With his keen eyesight, he found that the thin cable wire had slipped off its housing and he was able to  slide it back on. Even with my reading glasses, I had a hard time seeing it, but I eventually focused and saw what needed to be done the next time this happens.  I sure am learning a lot. I am very grateful for so many things---to HD and the shop folks who made him, for the fact that every snag has brought more blessings than hardships, for Barclay who got me through a tough spot, and John for seeing the cable and setting it to rights. He wouldn’t even let me pay him. He even advised I leave the trike there while I went next door to MacDonalds for coffee and to plan my spot to land for the night.  

I took him up on that suggestion and, after about an hour of searching and checking distances, costs, etc, I made a choice of Motel 6 on the southwest side of Charleston. It was about 15 more miles and I had 2 bridges to cross.  It was a good decision. The Charleston bridges were wonderful. The largest, northeastern bridge, had a huge, separate walk/bikeway. It was peopled with runners, walkers, and cyclists, who apparently enjoy the bridge for the exercise it provides in such a cool setting, overlooking the Charleston Bay.

Going through Charleston itself, a bit northwest of the downtown center, was great. Some of the streets were a bit rough, but I also had the great opportunity to cycle through a part of the college district. Young and beautiful and bright college students were out and about, heading home from class, on foot and cycle. The energy was contagious. Charleston is steeped in history and I was told of several Must See places to visit. Alas, not on this trip. 

After the second bridge, I followed my google bike map suggestions to find a bike path to the motel. But it was in terrible shape and then, after 1/4 mile on the rutted, dirt and sand path, it was closed for repair. That’s good---it needs some work. I made it to the Motel 6 around 5 pm. I chatted with the 2 folks behind the desk, both of whom were gorgeous and looked younger than their years. What is it about Charleston??? 

The parking lot and walkways of the Motel 6 were filled primarily with working men. In fact, I didn’t see a woman until the following morning, leaving with her husband. This left me fair game, or not so fair, for any man walking across the parking lot at the same time as I. Some curious, some drunk and flirtatious, but all very nice.  I demurely extricated my arm from the amiable drunk young man who does some pretty good impressions of famous people, and kept me entertained for several minutes. Still, I didn’t want “that much” company. 

The motel is very inexpensive and offers no frills, except 2 HBO channels on the small telly. But I needed cheap and I didn’t need the frills. Location and price were far more important. The motel is next to a MacDonalds (great coffee) and a Piggly Wiggly grocery store. About 1/2 mile away is the Citadel Mall. It is also just about the closest motel to the south end of Charleston, making my exit just a little quicker. Perfect.

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Thursday, September 27th, 2013

After a quiet night in my room with good HBO and even better telephone conversations, I awakened and couldn’t sleep past 6:30. Positioned right next to the junction of a freeway and hwy 17, the motel walls could not hold back the sound of the morning traffic. I’m used to getting up and packing HD by this time anyway. So, I got some coffee, did my exercises, communicated with all my children, wrote lists, updated my contact information, addressed postcards, organized my mess, and took a shower. After that, I took the short hike to the mall and spent the afternoon wandering around the stores, ate an incredible meal of stir fried veggies and fried rice at the mall food court (only $3.75 for a full plate!), and wrote more on this blog. Now, I’m back in my room, having doused my brain with more coffee from MacDonalds, and on the computer to write some more. Really, I have been writing, rewriting, and editing the blogs for the last 2 weeks. Tonight will be tidying up the blogs, posting them, and then getting ready for my exodus tomorrow. Will head out of Chucktown (local nickname for Charleston) and head for the KOA in Yemassee. I will stay there a few days and then: Hilton Head Island, Ho!!!

Have a good night, all you family and friends. I love each and every one of you. My horoscope from the Chucktown Coffee News said I feel most beautiful when bringing joy to those I love. I hope I can give back the joy that all of you have given me. My wrinkles could use a lift...