Into Oregon!

On Saturday morning, May 18th, I left the Elk Prairie Campground and headed for Crescent City. This was, surprisingly, an uneventful day. Just a beautiful one through the Del Norte Redwoods State Park, with the 101 going right through it. It was basically about 45 miles of woods, without any real towns or stops. No coastal views thru the redwoods. I went to the Crescent City KOA Kampground. I wanted a hot shower and a tent. I got both, including electricity in the bathroom. I plugged in my electronics and talked to my son while everything recharged. 

The next day was a bit harder. Well, a lot harder. The wind had been picking up over the last few days and this day, Sunday, May 19th, was a long 50 mile ride with a serious headwind. However, the views were still incredible, which took the sting out of the wind. Most of the time.

Highlights of the ride? HD and I passed into Oregon. The number of rivers I have been passing has been remarkable. Huge rivers running down to the ocean. Bridges of all types; even the highest bridge in Oregon with a 358 ft drop. Farmland in the redwoods. Since passing Eureka, the redwood forests have been thinned and there are large farmlands---cattle, sheep, llamas, horses, hay fields, vegetable fields. The view is changing now. 

I reached Gold Beach in the late afternoon and knew I didn’t have it in me to set up camp; the wind had exhausted me and I was shaking. I stopped at the Motel 101, a modest but clean little motel. A sign on the door said the manager was “out” but to call the number on the door, if help or a reservation were needed. I called the number and about 10 minutes later, “Satish” arrived. He is an attractive 42 yr old man, born in India and moved to the USA with his parents when he was 16. His father died not too many years following their arrival. So, Satish took over caring for his mother. He learned his skills on the job---he enjoys fixing things--plumbing, electrical, some construction. He manages this motel single-handedly. He does half of the cleaning as well. Satish takes great pride in his abilities and his stated loyalty to his bosses: Mr and Mrs Williams. Satish works 7 days a week, 10-14 hrs a day. He sleeps in an apartment in the motel office, but also has a small guest house on the owners’ property in Gold Beach, where his mother lives. He goes “home” every day around 11 am and his mother has his lunch prepared. She apparently is healthy and active and they are very close. 

Satish has never married but he did have a serious relationship for a few years. Apparently, he is having difficulty finding a companion who is willing to live in Gold Beach, a small town of about 2000, while he works his long days. However, he really does enjoy his job and feels his pay is quite fair, considering that his and his mother’s housing is covered, as well as a number of other bennies.

I spent about an hour chatting with Satish during the quiet evening. He lives very simply but feels that his needs are all met and he is content. He gave me his philosophy of life: a person, he says, needs only 3 things to live a complete life:  a roof over your head, an enjoyable job, and “to always ask permission”. This last one is key to understanding Satish and his philosophy. He feels it is important to always do the right thing and then you will sleep the sleep of the innocent. You go to bed with a clean conscience. 

“Never do anything without asking permission”: So, you never take what is not yours, unless you ask and have been granted permission. That not only covers stealing physical objects, but the less tangible as well. For example, you don’t assume things about others, you ask. You don’t treat people rudely. You don’t treat a woman disrespectfully---taking what is not given without express permission. 

His life consists of doing work that he enjoys---he likes doing the motel repairs, meeting clients who stay in the motel, making sure the rooms are in excellent condition, being treated with trust by his boss. He says he could go anywhere and would be able to get work. He would work for free for a few days to show that he is a good worker. He has been working for the Williams family for 12 years now and will continue to work for them for as long as they live. They are in their 70’s, as is his own mother. So, in some respects, he views them as parental figures as well as his employers, and he is there for them whenever they need him. 

When he is not working, Satish likes to watch tv and movies and then he will drink some beer after 9 pm, not before. He has 2 dogs---a chihuaha and a black lab---who stay with him in the motel office apartment. They keep him company should he get lonely. Every 3 months or so, he takes off an evening and Mr Williams comes in to cover the front desk. He goes to Coos Bay to live it up in his own quiet way. He saves his money and lives very frugally. His diet is quite simple as well. He personally feels well off, as he has a free place to live, a nice tv with every channel imaginable and a dvd player, some simple furniture, and a guest home for his mother, with whom he spends time every day. 

Satish reminds me that one can live simply and be happy, if they so choose. He also finds contentment with very little in the way of “things”, “activities”, “hobbies”, or even relationships. He would like to find a lady who would be happy to live simply in a small town; someone who can find things to do for herself and just be content. He doesn’t take vacations as his needs are met where he is right now. He lives at the coast, but states he never actually walks across the street to the beach or watch the ocean. 

I must admit, while I admire his ability to be happy with his low-maintenance life, I tend to want to get into trouble! Like travel, meeting new people, going to coffee shops, going to school, vacations, more travel, exploring everything around me, and then again, maybe some travel. 

I guess that would be considered “high maintenance” but, since I take care of it myself, then I think I would be “low maintenance” for a partner. If I had a partner, he could join me if he likes; I’m not asking to be entertained.

But I really do like to be taken to dinner from time to time...

On Monday, May 20th, I left in the morning and struck out for Bandon, OR, a 56 mile ride.  Here I will mention that, while I have the maps from Adventure Cycling Association, I often choose to use the simplest path. For example, cycling maps often suggest taking a more scenic route than the highway. This often adds a few miles and a lot more hills to manage. At this point, I’m a few weeks behind schedule, so I have been choosing fewer side roads and more hwy 101. Not only is it a straighter path from point A to point B, but the road itself tends to be a bit better, with newer pavement and fewer road irregularities and ruts. The Dept of Transportation in both CA and OR often suggest the side roads instead of the 1 or 101 due to traffic. But, I’m finding the traffic in the northern half of CA and, so far, OR, is relatively mild except near towns of over 5000 population. Speaking of which--a town of 3000 is now “large” to me, in this area of the country. It’s all a matter of perspective!!

Now, taking the Avenue of the Giants instead of the 101 was a no-brainer. It was gorgeous and historical and I would do it again. It actually paralleled the 101 most of the way, so it wasn’t any longer, really, but it was a heck of a lot more picturesque. Dark, mysterious, holy---in the deepest part of the giant redwoods.

So, moving along. The trip to Bandon, Oregon was long and fun! I met Les and Calvin, father and son cycling from Canada, where they live. I met them at the public beach bathroom that is known as Ophir. Ophir is on the map, but there is basically only a beach parking lot, a few picnic benches, and a bathroom. Les had been wanting to do this cycling trip along the Pacific Coast from Canada to LA for quite some time. When he told his son that he was going, his son decided to join him. Les was cooking sausages when I met them in the morning. I found it interesting that they were cycling and brought enough utensils to actually cook. Apparently he is carrying a heavier cargo load than I am, although I didn’t think that possible. After all, I am carrying way too many clothes, which I do seem to go through each 5 days!! 

Because Calvin is a young whippersnapper who cycles all over the place, they decided that Calvin is going to drive a SAG vehicle because he cycles faster than his dad. I wondered how that was going to be arranged. Is Calvin going to cycle ahead so he can get the cycling fun done, get a vehicle, and come back? Or will they both just cycle together to LA, get a vehicle, and Calvin drive the vehicle on the way back to Canada?

Calvin’s passion is filmmaking. He loves to make feature films, which is one reason why he wants to go to LA. I am not sure if he has contacts already there or just wants to see Hollywood. 

Well, I cycled on, into Bandon, OR. This town has a quaint little section, really only about 2 blocks long, considered “Old Town Bandon”. The water treatment plant is painted with marine scenes and the little shops look like old fishing village shops. I checked into another motel because the weather forecast said 100% chance of rain the following day. I stayed in the La Kris Inn. The manager was very helpful and the price for the room was very good. They even have a DVD player in the room and DVDs in the office you can watch. I checked out two: Avatar and Imaginary Heroes, both with Sigourney Weaver. I think she is one hell of an actor. Tough, cool, believable. Zoe Saldana plays the Navi heroine, Neyterii, in Avatar. This is an animated movie but filmed with  such incredible color, creatures, and imagination. Both films were excellent. I had never seen Imaginary Heroes. Fantastic. Touching coming of age for the son, played by Emile Hirsch. Also a period of growth, like an acceptance of life and death, for the mother, played by Weaver.

In Bandon, I did the laundry, picked up food and bottled water for the next few days, and  hung out when the rain began. Todd, the gent I met who lives in the mountains near Leggett, drove up and totally surprised me. I have no idea how he figured out what town I was in, but he did, texted me, and 5 minutes later was at the door. He took me to dinner--didn’t I just say I like that?--and we talked about our lives. He was the perfect gent and he and his dog, Ginger, rented a room in the motel and they had a peaceful night. 

This morning, Wednesday, May 22nd, I awakened to heavy rain. The 50% chance of rain had changed to 100%. But, the wind had also changed from a north west wind to a south west wind. So, while it meant getting very wet, it also meant I might actually get a tailwind, the first since I hit the southern CA coast!!! So, I checked out late, since I spent part of the morning undecided about whether to get on that trike or not; and got on the road shortly after 11 am. I had only 30 miles to go, and it only took about 3 to 3.5 hours. For me, that was a record on HD since beginning this trip. It didn’t seem windy, but the grades were minimal and easy, staying on the 101. The rain stayed heavy and I was soaked and frozen when I arrived in Coos Bay.  I checked into the motel and unloaded my very wet gear. I had tarps and nylon bags, etc, but the water had found its way around any crease or crevice or pinhole and did its work. So the rest of the afternoon has been spent moving my clothing around the heater vent. I’m a bit overly warm but still have a few wet things remaining. 

Tomorrow it is on to the next stop: the goal is just north of Dunes City, OR. Rain is now forecast for about 2 weeks, with an occasional break for some peekaboo sun. But, while in Oregon, and probably Washington, I will have to either cycle in the rain, or just not cycle. Not really an option! So, the destination is about 50 miles. A long day. I really oughtta go to bed now.