Newport to Seaside----and Tillamook!

Today is Tuesday, May 28th. It’s been a whirlwind and I’m a bit foggy headed, so I will do my best to recall the last 4 days.

On Friday, May 24th, I left The Park Motel and made it to Newport. It rained nonstop. This is a great town, divided by a huge river---well, really, it’s a bay. The Yaquina Bay. I found a good deal on a room on the south end. “Everything” is on the north end, so I walked across this massive bridge that spanned the bay. Old cement and artistry gave way to engineering steel beams and arches, then back again to the old cement style. Luckily, it wasn’t windy. The cement wall was not very high and, since I was on foot and next to the edge, I found myself reaching out and touching that wall every 3-4 steps. I’m getting better about the bridge and height phobia, only to hear that the I-5 bridge over the Skagit River near Vancouver collapsed, with 2 cars landing in the water...Anyway, I walked awhile to find a grocery store and picked up more consumables, grabbing a coffee on the way back.

Note on coffee. All through the Oregon coast are small towns. If there are more than 300 people in a town, that is enough to sport a coffee hut. I didn’t see many actual coffee shops for coffee-to-go in towns less than 1200. But these little huts dot the coast. They are small drive-through edifices, like little sheds you can construct yourself (with a smart friend) with a kit from Lowes or the Home Depot. They equip the insides with coffee makers, fridges, and microwaves. You can purchase almost every type of cappucino, frappuccino, lattes, and basic coffee drinks and espressos. You can order pre-packaged pastries, hot cereal, and granola bars. All in a drive thru. 

I now understand why there are so many of them. Oregonians live in the rain and, if they get their coffee at a drive-thru, they don’t have to don their galoshes and raincoats!! Just roll up your sleeve, reach out the window, and grab your coffee. Since I was on a trike, I sat in the rain waiting for the coffee. It is really kinda fun. 

I say that because the wind has been at my back. Not a strong wind. But still...

Here’s my next discovery about myself and life. Rain and hills on a cycle challenge you physically. I don’t find this distressing. Difficult yes; upsetting, no.

A headwind, however, for me is demoralizing, depressing. The physical challenge is there, just like with a steep incline. But a steep incline makes me smile. Wind pushing me back, however, makes me feel anxious. 

I extrapolate this to life. If I’m faced with a physical or mental challenge, that is fine. Even fun. This is like the steep hill or heavy load. I feel like I can conquer it. 

But emotional distresses are another thing. If I feel there is tension with a friend or loved one, I do not find that challenge “fun”. Certainly, I try to figure out what I need to do: apologize, counsel, listen, keep quiet, bridge a gap, negotiate, compromise, let go, etc. I will work at that and address it. But the whole situation is stressful to me. This is like a headwind. Human relationships are the most delicate and most worthy of our time. I won’t run from the headwind, but I am exhausted after the ride. Same thing with a communication upset.

OK.

On Saturday, May 25th, I got a late start. I’ve been going to bed way too late. Then, as I cycled through Newport, I saw their Saturday Farmer’s Market. What a delight. I stopped and gawked. I picked up a few baked goods from these young ladies who were selling bread and cookies like hot cakes. Wait, that doesn’t sound quite right. No pancakes were being sold...

Anyway, the fruits and veggies were a bit high priced at the market, although they looked fantastic. But the baked goods at these women’s stall were priced to sell. And sell, they did. The ladies were cheerful and the bread was a’flying! I got a chocolate torte and a muffin. They lasted 3 days total. 

I am not supposed to be eating baked goods. I really need to reign myself in, here. My daughters would spank me. They have much more self-discipline. I tend to reward myself into oblivion!!

HD and I cycled into the southern tip of Lincoln City in the early afternoon, having completed only about 25-30 miles--half of the distance I had planned for the day.  Lincoln City is a big town, spread out over several miles and separated into “neighborhoods”. A couple on a tandem cycle stopped and asked directions to the Devils Lake State Park Campground. They were using the same maps as I am---the Adventure Cycling Association maps. These are waterproof and sturdy and give helpful hints--like where some of the good campgrounds are located. This couple planned on staying at the hiker/biker spot at the Devil’s Lake Campground in the northern third of Lincoln City. They cycled on, and I decided that this campground sounded good. So I decided to follow their lead, in a manner of speaking. They were gone in a flash while HD and I plodded onward. Happy and calm. It was my first day without rain and I was missing the camping.

I found the campground and Steve and Nancy Ellis, the couple on the tandem, were camped and getting ready for a little meal. After I put up my tent, we had a nice conversation. 

Steve is an avid, serious cyclist. It is one of his passions. He and Nancy have been spending their vacations every year cycling and camping. They had 3 daughters---and took them along on all those cycling vacations. At one point, they had two tandems. Steve was the pilot of one, Nancy the pilot of the other. The two older daughters took the rear posts. The baby was put in a carrier on Steve’s bike. At one point, they rigged it so that she could pedal whenever she wanted, or put her legs up on stirrups. They plied her with games and coloring books. And they never stopped cycling.

So now, the two older daughters still love to cycle. The youngest does not. But all 3 are athletic. I think the youngest plays collegiate basketball. So, watching his kids in sporting events is another of Steve’s passions. He loves those daughters.

Steve and Nancy were both math teachers. Nancy taught for about 10 years and then became full time mommy and part time substitute teacher. Steve just retired from teaching and this trip was his retirement gift to himself. 

The gift: the exact same ride I’m doing! LOL!!!  They live in Chicago but started their trip from Florida on March 17, one week before me. They average 70 miles a day, speeding along on their tandem. They camp every night, rain or shine. Nancy says Steve is like McGyver, able to fix anything, rig anything, and create something out of practically nothing. So, they camp in the rain but stay dry. 

I am not so gifted with smarts. But I can listen. It started to rain at 8 pm and didn’t stop till 6:30 a.m. Everything in my tent was soaked. Steve and Nancy explained what I had done wrong in my camp set up. I listened. Maybe next time I will stay drier.

So, Steve’s passions are cycling, his beloved daughters, and watching them in whatever sport they choose. All three are grown and educated. One is in seminary, studying comparative writings between scriptures and secular works. One did a missionary trip for several months. It was obvious that Steve and Nancy adore their daughters.

Nancy shares the passion for their children. While she enjoys the cycling, I imagine she wouldn’t mind a motel from time to time. I felt spoiled as I do go to motels in the rain. I prefer the camping when it’s decent, but a hot shower in a motel room once a week is cool. Since I hit Oregon, I’ve been moteling it. I feel guilty about it because of the expense. But, I don’t want to get sick, so I allow myself to get soaked during the day while I’m cycling, but I don’t want to sleep wet. Big baby.

But, back to Nancy. Focus, girl, focus!

Nancy’s biggest passion is her faith in God. She says she has felt His presence this entire trip and believes with great certainty that they would be dead without His intervention. She described a few harrowing incidents that could have had a bad end. But did not (have a bad end), as she is here living and breathing and singing His praises. I can see why their children went into ministry fields. It is part and parcel of their family, of the way they were raised, of the closeness of this family and the extrapolation of religion from this secure home life. 

May their blessings be many. And yours too, whatever your belief systems. We are all One. That is my religion. ONE. We are all made of the same stuff, which links us irrevocably in an incredible energy field. More than that, I don’t know. I believe we can manipulate this energy field to a certain extent with our thoughts and that we create our existence, our own reality, through it. This is why some people walk with a dark cloud over their heads and some walk with many blessings. I choose the latter. So let it be done.

On Sunday, May 26th, HD and I packed up the wet gear---very, very wet gear---and headed for Tillamook. I deviated from the advice from the cycling maps and stayed on the 101 instead of hugging the Pacific. I was so glad I did. This road wound through the gently rolling hills of Tillamook country. It was not depictive of the ascents and descents of the rocky coast. Instead, I was treated to views of farm country. I am so excited about this day. I passed dozens of small farms with huge pastures. These are the dairies that comprise the Tillamook Farmers’ Co-op. These farms had anywhere from a dozen to maybe 100 cows, lounging, munching, curiously watching me cycle by. Lemme tell ya--these were HAPPY cows. Can you tell if a cow is happy? 

OK, so it’s a guess. But here is a hint. I pass this huge pasture, with a bridge going over a part of it. I’m on the bridge and what do I see underneath? The cows had walked from the pasture on the west side of the bridge and crossed to the east. I didn’t see a cowboy or ranch dog pushing them along. They were lining up to go into the milking shed. By themselves. I am sure there was some grain for them---I have milked a few cows in my days and that is a nice way to get them to stay still for the milking. There were other cows leaving the milking shed to go back to their pasture. 

I got a kick out of this. It was like Cow Camp. Have fun in the grass all day, then go in for the communal dinner and then go back out to play. 

There should’ve been a campfire and a cowboy singing old tunes to complete the picture. 

Learn about this amazing co-op: 

http://www.tillamook.com/ourstory/keeping_it_in_the_family.html

For any of you health conscious folk who think all dairy products are evil:

1. Most of us are born with lactase, an enzyme which allows us to digest milk products. And not just as babies. If you take lactase absent cells and put them in petrie dishes and add milk, close to 50% of those cells will make lactase. Without having the original gene to express that enzyme. We are so damn adaptable. I love that about humans! The Hindus revere cows because of what they give to humans. Yet, they don’t eat beef. But they do care for the cows respectfully, milk them, and eat lots of yogurt, cheese, and milk. (Yummm)

1. If you are conscious about the milk and milk products you buy, even you vegetarians (and dare I say vegans?) can enjoy dairy products, knowing that the cows are well cared for--if you purchase with discernment. Do you read the cartons? Buy from sources known for good work and farm practices? If you eat/drink dairy, perhaps look at the labels and pay a few extra bucks for products where the cows are treated well. You vote with your dollars. You push economics and farm practices, etc, with your dollars. 

3.  There are those who say dairy products are bad for you. This may be true for some people. Some folks are truly lactose intolerant. Some don’t digest milk products well. I find this to be a good determinant for those who just aren’t sure: go on a 3 day juice and water fast. Then, add back some foods, one or two days at a time, and check your reaction. If you get sick or don’t feel well, then that particular food may not be so good. I can eat lots of yoghurt, but I have to make sure I don’t eat excessive amounts of cheese. Balance is key. 

All that being said, while I eat dairy, I don’t eat four legged or winged critters. But that is my path, not necessarily yours. Here’s the thing. Gratitude is key. Whether you eat carrot or cow, chickpeas or chicken, peas or pork. 

OK, now that I’ve promoted sane dairy industry and stood on the pulpit (it WAS Sunday when I went to Tillamook, after all), let’s move on. I stayed in Tillamook on Sunday night. I mean, that’s one reason why I wanted to go through farm country--to see where the milk comes from. I didn’t see the factory until the next morning. I had to stop in and buy some cheese. I would have loved to wander the factory a bit--they had a self-guided tour. But it was raining pretty heavily and I was not moving fast. I wouldn’t mind coming back. With an empty cooler and prepared to fill it!

The night before, I had been extraordinarily hungry. My mistake. I ate some chinese food at the end of the night; take-out from a place next to the motel. I awakened not feeling great but ate more of the stuff anyway. Like a compulsion to not let food go to waste, and I had eaten only half of it the night before. Not fresh food. 

Well, this was one heck of a hard day. I felt a bit unsettled in my stomach all day. (And no, I hadn’t eaten any cheese! Just old food from a can, I believe). The rain was hard, the hills were harder, and I reached Seaside, Oregon all done in. I had a light fever, felt wobbly, and couldn’t tell if I was hungry or sick. I stopped in a Safeway store, drank a blonde roast coffee, and got on the cell phone to see if there were any cheap motels. Well, one of the nicest places in Seaside had a last minute deal, probably because the beginning of the summer season turned out to be cold and rainy and it was Memorial Day---people leaving, NOT checking in! So, I checked into the Shilo Inn & Suites, Oceanfront in Seaside, for $60/night. The lady at the desk treated me like visiting royalty: had me park HD in a glassed conference room and gave me a room facing the ocean. Nothing between me and the water but a large stretch of sand. I showered, did my exercises, went down to the lounge and drank a glass of red wine, and then....lied in the steam room, then in the sauna, then in the jacuzzi. OMG! I came back up to the room, fixed myself a sweet potato with Tillamook cheese for dinner, followed by a baked apple with melted Tillamook coconut fudge on it. And strawberry Kombucha. I ate my feast while watching a movie on Netflix. And felt much better!

This was heaven. Now it is Tuesday and I’m in a coffee shop across the street. I still feel weak and tired but the tummy is much better, so I’m staying here all day. I will take a walk. It was a 30% chance of rain today here, but guess what? It’s raining!! LOL! 

Tomorrow I will head into Washington. Today I will ponder the meaning of life.

Wish me luck. I haven’t figured that one out yet. At all.