On Sunday, June 2, 2013, I awakened to light rain and with the plan to head north toward Seattle. But, I really was undecided. My lodging opp fell through in Seattle which meant I would either need to camp or stay in a Seattle motel. So, I cycled out of the campground and found a Starbucks a few miles away. There, I settled in with coffee, electricity, the internet, and indecision.
By the end of a 90 minute study session, with all electronics duly charged, I decided to forego the plan to go to Seattle or Canada.
Why?
- There was no viable camping in Seattle and the motel rates were sky-high.
- The streets I had been cycling on had varying degrees of shoulder and cycle space and the fast paced traffic was making me nervous. I was already longing for the quiet of the redwood highways. When I am in a car, I love city driving and simply enjoying city life---parks, museums, movies, shows, concerts, restaurants, coffee shops, education/classes, sometimes even a mall (although I hardly buy anything from malls anymore---I have all the clothes I need!). But with cycling, you are an integral part of your environment. In the city, this means--the sidwalks, the stoplights, the turn lanes, the trucks, the cars, the ladies pushing strollers, the homeless person hoping for some cash, the folks late to work, etc. You can’t really shut it out by rolling up the window or turning up the radio. Travel is very slow on my cycle in the city. I can’t get through the green light easily; I can’t always get in the turn lane; I have to try to stay out of the way of the cars turning right at the corner. Henry David’s width sometimes aggravates people. Ninety nine percent of drivers are friendly and wave or give me a thumb’s up. But there are a few who not pleased with my back end!!
- To get to Canada and back would cost several hundred dollars in motel fees and a week to do it. Since I wasn’t traveling a nice, country road, this would be a week of stress. I think I would like to come back in a car and do all the sightseeing things this area offers. And it is a vibrant, energetic area. I really must come back.
So, I found a reasonable motel east of Seattle; the EconoLodge in Renton, WA. This would give me a few miles ahead of the game and maybe recoup some of the time I had used having fun with family in Tucson and Southern California. So, off HD and I went to Renton. It was only 20 miles but took a good part of the day to maneuver the city and figure out where to turn, etc. The bike app kept shutting down, which meant pulling over and rerouting, at least half a dozen times. The Lake Washington Rd was really lovely; hilly, treelined, magnificent homes, and the view of the “lake” peeking through the trees. There were numerous cyclists out, many training for the Seattle to Portland ride, coming up in a few weeks.
The nice young man at the desk gave me the best deal he could and gave me a ground floor room. Yay! I pulled HD inside, took a shower, had a chat with my son, and went in search of coffee. Then, I settled in the motel room and spent the rest of the afternoon and evening figuring out what I was going to do. Go south to catch hwy 12 and cross the Cascades? Go due east on I-90? The most direct and shortest route was the 90, so you wouldn’t think I would even have a doubt about taking it. But, there is about an 8-10 mile strip without a shoulder. Cyclists are supposed to get off and get on the Iron Horse Trail, otherwise known as the John Wayne Pioneer Trail. This is an old railroad service road. It is not paved. It is rcommended that you have good tires to use this road---racing bikes ill advised. The forums on this road by other cyclists give varying accounts: the gravel is too loose, the gravel is hard packed, etc. I have found that everyone has a different idea about road conditions, safety, ease or difficulty of any road. I saw photos of the trail and it looked fairly hard packed with looser gravel at the edges. Hmmmm.
In the end, I decided to go ahead and do it. Riding the Iron Horse Trail would be an adventure. The 10 miles of dirt road may take longer than usual, but I might get a few cool photos!!
So, I watched a film on Netflix, starting it when I should’ve gone to bed. But I had been anxious about the indecision all day, and needed to wind down. So, I watched ...
The next morning, Monday, June 3rd, I awakened a bit late, but only had 20-25 miles to get to North Bend, WA. I simply HAD to go to the town where the exterior of Twin Peaks was filmed. This is a tv miniseries about a murder in the woods in a small town called Twin Peaks. It is full of twists and turns and becomes increasingly bazarre and full of paranormal occurrences. The show has somewhat of a cult following---you kinda have to enjoy the weird stuff. Same thing with Rocky Horror Picture Show. Some might see that show and shudder with abhorrence. Others would see genius. I tend to fit in the latter category.
So, to get to North Bend, I cycled on bike approved roads to Isaaquah. This was a fun ride. I was shrouded again in trees and quiet roads, even though going through the city. In Isaaquah, the light parted and I saw a Trader Joes! Yay! I popped in and picked up a chunk of jack pepper cheese, a banana, and a few granola bars. Then HD and I hit the I-90 and rode for about 12 miles to get to North Bend. The Starbucks beckoned as the place to reconnoiter. There, I met Tom. He is about 60 and had been cycling. He came up to talk to me and wanted to discuss where I should go camp. He was very enthusiastic, if a little distractible. At the end, we decided I should go to the Forest Ranger Station a few miles up the road in North Bend. He wanted me to follow him. As I followed him out of the coffee shop, we ran into Robin. Tom really likes Robin, as he seems to like and know just about everyone in town. He introduced us and she and I chatted happily while Tom took a call from a buddy.
She and I liked each other immediately.
Robin is just a few years older than I but looks 40. She says it’s genetic. I bet her lovely spirit also helps. She works part time at Starbucks and likes the work. Guess what? At Starbucks, you get full benefits if you work only 20 hours a week!! Unlike many megabusinesses that only offer benefits at 36+ hours and then ensure you work only 35 in order to keep from covering your medical insurance, etc. OK--so, I’ll have another blonde roast venti, please!!
I followed Tom to the station; he left to go get his motorcycle to meet up with his buddy. I found that the closest campground was 10 miles up the road--uphill. That would take a few more hours. Well, ok, I thought. But---it also meant riding several miles on a dirt road. I thought, well, if I were going to do that, I would just head up the “hill” to the next campground.
Hmmmm. Another dilemma. I walked out to my trike, wondering if I should do what the other cyclists do and just pull over and set up camp. Not in a campground but just pulling the cycle into the trees and putting up the tent. But I really like the safety of a campground. While I was preparing to get on HD and just deal with the 10 mile ascent to the campground, Robin pulled up in her car. She rolled down the window and said, “Hey, I was just thinking. I have a house on 2 acres. Why don’t you camp in my yard? You can take a shower, we can share dinner, I even have a fire pit and we can light a fire in the back yard!”
YAY, YAY, YAY!!!! The angels are smilin’ upon me.
So, I googled her address and began the ride to her home, over the Snoqualmie River and a cool red bridge, along a winding road through the trees and beautiful homes set away from the roads. Robins house was tucked back in the trees, with a beautiful, large lawn surrounded by the pines. Her home was magnificent. The kitchen/dining/living area was in an open floor plan, with large windows facing the back lawn and trees. The home was carefully decorated--elegant without the clutter of “stuff”.
I love paintings with negative space. They are more soothing than a Jackson Pollack!! And her home was lovely.
Robin prepared a delightful smorgasbord of salad, veggies, and fruits. I threw my flaxseed tortilla chips into the mix and we were ready to roll. I had two plates full. Plus a glass of red wine. My bad...
Robin’s brother Mark came in and told me about his wild days and Woodstock, staying an extra 2-3 weeks to party on. His wandering ways from the straight and narrow had taken their toll--that plus a serious back injury---and he was a man of about 60 with CHF and an oxygen tank. He was in acceptance of his medical condition but seriously wanted to improve his situation. He had been living with Robin and her family, but was moving into his own apartment this upcoming weekend. He told me stories of his childhood; Robin had a different recollection!
This made me laugh. I tended to believe Robin’s side! Mark apparently picked on her when dad wasn’t around. So, when dad was around, Robin would cry out, “Dad, Mark hit me!” While this was not true at the moment, it partially covered the times when dad wasn’t around to protect her. I thought this was pretty much like siblings!! I have a brother too! LOL!
Now, Robin.
What a beautiful person, inside and out. She is fascinating and multi-layered. She was a model for over 20 years. She showed me her portfolio that spanned from the 1970’s to the 1990’s. A slim, tall blonde with an incredible figure, she looked like a cross between Olivia Newton John, Christie Brinkley, and Farrah Fawcett. She has John’s big, deep blue eyes--you could drown in their depths. She has the Brinkley freshness girl-next-door look. And the Fawcett slim, sultry look. Wow.
Acting is included in her resume. She did over 100 commercials and various one-time parts in some tv series, including one of my old favorites, the A-team. All of that was on film then, and she only had one cyber copy of an old tv commercial for Rainier Beer. She played a jungle cutie, like “Jane”, with 3 Tarzan hunks, swinging through the trees to drink Rainier beer, served by a chimpanzee! She had me laughing as she described wearing the skimpy outfit, filmed in the nearby mountains---not the jungle, so it was a little bit cold! She enjoyed her career immensely and told many stories of the challenges she faced as she maintained her integrity amongst lecherous directors, photographers, and model industry moguls.
Her career ended with her 2nd child. She was still drop dead gorgeous but juggling childcare and career and husband became almost impossible. So, she made her choices. That 2nd, and last child, is now 20 years old and facing a likely baseball scholarship or pro contract. She is very proud of him and they are very close.
Robin has not had it easy however. No prima donna, she. Alcoholic father with her share of sufferings and neglect, 2 marriages and 2 serious heartbreaks, breast cancer treated with mastectomy and chemo and a heck of a lot of ongoing pain--Robin has faced her monsters. And continues to face them. One of her saddest moments was the death of her nephew, who was like her own child or her own brother. She is deeply, deeply spiritual and she moved me with her insights on life and her recognition of the Universe’s messages to her. She maintains “awakeness” and this enriches her life.
The thought of her makes me choke up inside and my eyes are brimming right now. She is a beautiful woman and I will count her as my friend, always.
We enjoyed the fire she lit in her firepit, shared life philosophies, and drank wine. What a wondrous night. I tucked myself in my tent at the end of the evening, doing my daily exercise routine as I contemplated the events of the day.
Life is a miracle. No matter how you look at it.
In the morning, she made me a cup of tea and we had fresh strawberries out on the table while we conversed one last time. I hope it’s not the last time, though. I hope she joins me for a few days somewhere on this road.
As I left her home, I headed back to North Bend. It was my goal to go to the cafe from the Twin Peaks miniseries. I knew my filmmaker daughter would kick my butt if I didn’t go in. It is no longer called the Twin Peaks Cafe as Kyle and Dorothy Twede bought it in the late 90’s and renamed it Twede’s Cafe. In 2000, an arsonist set fire to the cafe and the whole place was gutted. The owners rebuilt and redesigned. While it is not exactly the same interior as before, you still see old fashioned diner tables and booths. They sell t-shirts that sport the famous saying from the film series: “Where you can get a slice of cherry pie and a damn fine cup of coffee”. The door to the kitchen itself has a “Fire walk with me” sign on the door. On the walls by the bathrooms are numerous local newspaper articles of the filming of the series. So, when the gent came to get my order, I, of course, told him I wanted a slice of that famous cherry pie and a damn fine cup of coffee. I’m sure he has heard it a thousand times and would’ve poured the coffee on my head. But. That is what brings in the business to this cafe.
When I was parking HD to go into the cafe, who should I meet but Tom, the local man I had met the previous day. He had advised I do NOT go to Twedes because “it wasn’t any good”. I am glad I insisted on going in anyway (Shannon was texting me, telling me I better not forget to go there!!). The pie and coffee were REALLY good. I had 2 large mugs of coffee. That pie was delicious--plenty of cherries inside a flaky, sweet crust. Yummm. Not my typical breakfast, but it was a great way to start the trek up the mountains.
Tom came in and sat across from me, telling me he hadn’t had time to tell me his story from the day before. He shared the story of his childhood. His father was a scientist who died from a lab accident that resulted in 8 years of pain and 3 surgeries and ended his life early anyway. Tom would go in to the lab with him and follow his instructions to the letter. Tom spoke in full sentences when he was very little---this was quite like my son, Deois, who went from baby talk to full sentences almost overnight at about 22 months. My son had his own complete language when he was one and would run in with a toy and babble excitedly to me for a full minute or two, during which I would exclaim, “Really? And then what?” not knowing what he was saying. But the sentence structure was there.
Deois is a language genius.
Then Tom told me he had a head injury quite young when he was pushed off the bumper of a moving vehicle. After that, he started having trouble concentrating, had limited hearing, and did poorly in school. Some years ago, he had a stroke. He overcame most of the physical affects of the stroke by hiking up Mount Si every day, increasing his hike by a few minutes each day and carefully paying attention to his body. He gave himself an allowance of 3 stumbles and would then turn back. Day by day, he could climb farther before the 3 faltering steps occurred, until he was able to climb the whole darn mountain. He is considered disabled but does take care of himself, can drive, and rides his motorcycle or his bicycle every day. He knows everyone in town and maintains a smile and a friendly hello to everyone he meets.
Well, I had to begin my ascent, so I said a fond farewell to Tom at about 11 am and headed upward. The ascent up the Cascades on I-90 was much easier than expected. The Laguna Mountains were much harder. This road was a mild grade and more rolling that continuously upward. The traffic was a bit heavy, with the semi trucks zooming past, so I was grateful to see the exit for the Denny Creek Campground. This country road meandered 3.7 miles, mostly ascending, to the campground through the trees. It was a lovely but lonely road and sometimes I wondered if I were really on the correct road. But the cell phone google maps was intact and said I was going in the right direction.
I pulled into the camp and cycled around, looking for a good space. The camp host, Dave, came by in his pick up to tell me my cost as a lone cyclist was only $10, not the $20-25 as listed at the kiosk. And I could choose any place! So, I picked a spot right next to the river and a quick walk to the bathroom. I set up camp and then set out on foot for a great hike. First, I walked along the historic wagon trail. I simply am astounded by the wagon trains and how difficult it must have been to cross the mountains. This trail was impossibly rough and narrow. I imagined the broken wheels and the husband and wife clearing brush and fallen trees, cutting down trees in the way, and hand carrying precious stuff over truly rough terrain. I worried about the pregnant mamas being bounced over the tree roots and rocks, and wondered at the courage it took to take on this amazing trek.
It makes my own little adventure seem like a safe ride to heaven up a golden staircase. Or a magic carpet ride, in comparison.
Since childhood, I wondered if I would have made a good pioneer woman. Would I have had the guts to cross the wilderness, not knowing the lay of the land? Without my maps? And now, without my essential cell phone? But, I like living today. Man oh man, do I enjoy living in the relative ease of this early 21st century, as a woman, in the good ole USA.
After the wagon trail hike, I segued onto the Franklin Falls trail and walked to view this gorgeous waterfall. Rainbow patterns shimmered through the water and the mist bathed my face while the roaring sound of water filled my ears. It was powerful and I found myself hugging the rocky ledge. Still a bit hesitant of heights!
I followed the Franklin Falls trail back to the campground and enjoyed an evening, part of which was spent in the bathroom recharging my phone and computer! I ate my dinner and then wrapped it up and hung it on a hook in one of the bathroom stalls. I didn’t want the smell of fruit, nuts, cheese, and grains to attract coons and bears to my little tent! As it was, some little critter still managed to share some of the trail mix!
The next morning, Wednesday, June 5th, I left the camp early with the plan to see how far I could get. I knew that I had about 9 miles of unpaved road and was unsure of what kind of time I would make. Leaving the campground, I didn’t have to get back on the I-90 for several miles. I followed the campground hwy for about 3 miles to Snoqualmie Pass. This is a little town with a few ski lodges and restaurants. I grabbed coffee at a convenience store and spoke to the young man working at the counter. I had noted a large area being cleared across the street. He said that some condos and a museum were going up there. It had been in the plan for 10 years and work was finally commencing. I think Snoqualmie Pass will be growing some more. It is really beautiful there and has potential to be an incredible vacation spot. From this town, I was able to catch the Iron Horse Trail, otherwise known as the John Wayne Pioneer Trail. This is an old train service road that has been preserved for cyclists and hikers. It is unpaved and graveled. Luckily, going east, it is a slight downhill grade, so I didn’t slide around or struggle as I had imagined. For the portion that I rode it, the trail borders Keelchelus Lake. It was pristine. I could see the I-90 on the other side. I had to cycle the Iron Horse due to road construction on the I-90 and the lack of shoulder for cyclists. The Washington DOT has done a good job of directing cyclists to other roads.
While on the Iron Horse, I saw a young buck elk leap across the road in front of me, into the woods. There were mini water falls down the rocks, water everywhere, and green, green, green. It smelled delicious.
When I left the trail to get back on the interstate, I was detoured off again within a few miles. This was a great detour! HD and I wound through some farming country on a road that also had some construction going on. The road crew members were friendly and directed me through and waved happily. What a great ride.
Then, back on to the interstate. After a few more hills, I headed consistently downward and reached a rest stop. I pulled over and got off the cyle and had not taken 2 steps before I met Elizabeth and her teenage daughter Larkin. These ladies had traveled on the I-90 the previous day on their way to Olympia and had seen me going up the mountain. Then, today, as they were heading back to Idaho, they passed me going down! We all ended up at the rest stop!
These women were empowered. They had traveled to Olympia so that Larkin could receive the Gold Award, the highest honor a girl scout can achieve. To earn this award, Larkin had developed a marksmanship program for girls, even moving legislation to promote 12 year old girls’ rights related to firearms. I am not sure of these details but would love to learn more. Elizabeth and Larkin talked about empowering women. Elizabeth is a girl scout leader and has devoted her life to this end. She respects courage and going beyond the expected norms. She met her husband and said that he was a solo cyclist when she met him, having traversed the country twice by himself. Thus, she was especially interested in HD and I and this “solo” ride. Larkin plans to study political science in college. Look out, world, Larkin is coming!! I am so inspired by these 2 women!
So, having made good time and with a delicious tailwind, I decided to head on to Ellensburg. Another detour off the I-90 had me winding through more farm country and landing at a produce stand just when I realized I was getting hungry. I had a fresh picked, huge apricot, and a sweet, crisp apple and zipped on in to Ellensburg. I stopped on the side of the road near the interstate and consulted google. The motel prices were a bit high but there was a KOA about 1/4 mile back. So, I got a great deal at the Ellensburg KOA next to the Yakima River. This was a fast moving river that sweetly sang me to sleep.
But the Ellensburg adventure was just beginning.
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